seaboardgàidhlig

A’ Ghàidhlig ann an Eachdraidh Machair Rois

Pàirt 1: bho na Meadhan Aoisean gu 1750

An-uiridh sgrìobh mi sreath mu ainmean-àite ionadail, a fhuair sinn bho Lochlannais, Cruithnis, Gàidhlig agus Beurla no Beurla Gallda. (Tha seo ri fhaotainn air an làrach-lìn ùr againn cuideachd: http://seaboardhistory.com/gallery/gaelic-in-the-villages/ )  Bha e gu math soillier gur ann bhon Ghàidhlig a thàinig a’ chuid a bu mhotha de na h-ainmean anns an sgìre seo. Seo Pàirt 1 de sreath eile, ceangailte ris am fear ud, mun a’ Gàidhlig ann an eachdraidh Rois an Ear, gu h-àraidh a thaobh a’ phàirt againne dhith. Le eachdraidh a’ chànain chì sinn dealbh eachdraidh phoiliteagach agus shòisealta na sgìre cuideachd.

‘S e Machair Rois an t-ainm tradaiseanta air Sgìre na Manachainn agus na paraistean air gach taobh dhith, Tairbeart agus Neig, pàirt de Ros an Ear air a bheil san latha an-diugh ‘the Fearn Peninsula’ sa Bheurla. ‘S e sin an oirthir chreagach eadar Rubha Thairbeirt agus Beinn Neig, leis na “trì port mor”, na bailtean-iasgaich Baile a’ Chnuic, Baile an Todhair agus Seannduaig, agus am fearann torrach nas fhaide a-staigh san tìr. Bha an dà thaobh seo den sgìre – àiteachas agus iasgach – glè chudromach ann an eachdraidh na Gàidhlig.  

Mar a chunnaic sinn, ‘s ann bhon t-sluagh Ghàidhealach a thàinig a’ mhòr-chuid de na h-ainmean ann am Machair Rois. Anns na Meadhan Aoisean tràth chaidh an smachd poiliteagach is eaconamach beag air bheag thairis bho na Cruithnich chun nan Gàidheal, agus mar sin dh’fhàs buaidh na Gàidhlig anns an sgìre, agus b’ i a’ Ghàidhlig prìomh chànan muinntir na sgìre as dèidh sin, a-nuas chun na 19mh linne co-dhiù, mar a b’ i air feadh na Gàidhealtachd. Gu ìre, ‘s e sin a thachair – ach mòran na bu shlaodaiche – le Gàidhlig agus Beurla tro na linntean. Bha buaidh na Beurla, no na Beurla Gallda, na bu tràithe agus na bu treasa ann an Ros an Ear na bha i ann am pàirtean eile den Ghàidhealtachd.

Bha an-còmhnaidh ùidh mhòr aig luchd-riaghlaidh na h-eaglaise agus na stàite anns an dùthaich thorraich fhasgaich aig ceann Linne Mhoireibh. Bha cudromachd ro-innleachdail aig an làrach seo agus thàinig “na h-urracha mòra” seo, no na riochdairean no basaillean aca, gu tric à ceann a deas na h-Alba, agus ri ùine thàinig Beurla Gallda no Beurla còmhla riutha, cuide ri na structaran sòisealta agus siostaman gabhaltais aca.

Ann an Sgìre na Manachainn fhèin bha an abaid Mhanachainn Rois ann bho c.1238, a chaidh a stèidheachadh le manaich à Taigh Mhàrtainn (Whithorn), Gall-Ghàidhealaibh, agus caistealan agus taighean mòra mar Chathabul agus Gàthan. Bha Baile Dhubhthaich na shuidhe aig riaghaltas ionadail agus na ionad-malairt, le ceanglaichean rìoghail làidir agus cliù air feadh na h-Alba mar àite-taistealachd, air sgàth cnàmhan Neamh Dubhthaich anns a’ chaibeal an sin. Cha bhiodh na h-in-imrichean Gallda ag ionnsachadh a’ chànain “bhoirb” a bhiodh aig muinntir an àite  – mar a bha aig a sgrìobhadair John of Fordun ann an 1380 agus fiù ‘s aig Seumas VI/I fhèin ann an 1616 air a’ chànan Ghàidhlig, agus is beag an t-iongnadh gur e Beurla a-mhàin, no Beurla ri taobh na Gàidhlig, a bha ga cleachdadh ri ùine leis na daoine foghlaimte agus na h-uachdarain, ged as i a’ Ghàidhlig an cànan a bu treasa fhathast meadhan san 18mh linn – “the dominant language” air an dùthaich agus anns na bailtean-iasgaich, a rèir luchd-eachdraidh leithid Ian R.M.Mowat (Easter Ross 1750-1850: The Double Frontier).

Anns na mapaichean as sìne den sgìre, m.e. fear le Joan Blau (c. 1684), chithear mar-thà cuid de dh’ainmean-àite ann an cruth Beurla seach Gàidhlig, m.e. Fern (Manachainn Rois), Sandwick (Seannduaig), Abetsheavn (Port an Ab / Baile an Todhair), ainmean air an cleachdadh leis a’ chlas fhoghlaimte, no riaghlaidh, chan ann le muinntir an àite fhèin – deagh eisimpleir de bhuaidh thràth na Beurla an seo. Mar a thuirt Ian R.M. Mowat mu Ros an Ear, “Although it is geographically located in the North of Scotland, the area was not typically Highland.”

 Ann am Pàirt 2, bidh mi a’ coimhead air an linn 1750 -1850 agus leasachadh àiteachais san sgìre.

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Gaelic in the History of the Seaboard

Part 1: the Middle Ages to 1750

Last year I wrote a series about local place-names, which we got from Scandinavian, Pictish, Gaelic, and English or Scots . (You can get this on our new website now: http://seaboardhistory.com/gallery/gaelic-in-the-villages/ ) It was very clear that the majority of names in this area came from Gaelic. This is Part 1 in another series, related to the last one, about Gaelic’s role in the history of Easter Ross, especially in our part of it. The language’s story is very much a reflection of the social and political history of our area.

‘Machair Rois’ – the coastal strip of (East) Ross-shire, is the traditional name given to the parish of Fearn and its neighbouring parishes, Tarbat and Nigg, broadly equivalent to the modern ‘Fearn Peninsula’. It includes the craggy coastline between Tarbat Ness and Nigg, with the ‘trì port mor’ – the three fishing villages of Hilton, Balintore and Shandwick – and the fertile farming country further inland. These two sides of the area – farming and fishing – were both significant in the history of Gaelic.

As we saw, it’s from the Gaels that we got the majority of our place-names. In the early Middle Ages political and economic power in the North East gradually shifted from the Picts to the Gaels, and with them the influence of Gaelic in the area increased. From then on up till the 19th cenutry Gaelic was the main language in this area, as it was across the Highlands. To some extent, that’s the same process that happened with Gaelic and English over the centuries – though much more slowly. The influence of English, and Scots, was present much earlier and more strongly in Easter Ross than in other parts of the Highlands.

The rulers of state and church had always taken a great deal of interest in this fertile sheltered site at the end of the Moray Firth. It had great strategic importance to them, and the ‘high heid yins’ or their representatives or vassals who came to administer the area were usually from the south of Scotland. In the course of time the Scots or English languages came north with them, along with ‘southern’ social structures and tenancy systems.

In the parish of Fearn itself there has been an abbey since c. 1238,  founded by monks from Whithorn in Galloway, and castles like Cadboll and Geanies. Tain was the seat of local government and a centre of commerce, with strong royal links and Scotland-wide fame as a place of pilgrimage, because of the bones of St Duthus in the chapel there. The Lowland incomers would not usually have learned the “barbaric” local language, as Gaelic was described by the writer John of Fordun in 1380, and even by King James VI/I himself in 1616. It’s hardly surprising that it was English, or English alongside Gaelic, that came to be used increasingly over time by the educated people and the landlords, although Gaelic was clearly still  “the dominant language” in both the countryside and the fishing villages in the mid-18th century, according to historians such as Ian R.M. Mowat (Easter Ross 1750 – 1850: The Double Frontier)  

In the oldest maps of the area, e.g. by Joan Blaeu c.1684, we can already see that some of the names are given in their English versions instead of the original Gaelic, e.g. Fern (Manachainn Rois), Sandwick (Seannduaig), Abetsheavn (Port an Ab / Baile an Todhair). These would be the forms used by the learned or governing classes who commissioned the maps, not by the locals themselves, and are a good example of the early influence of English here. As historian Ian Mowat said of Easter Ross:  “Although it is geographically located in the North of Scotland, the area was not typically Highland.”

 In Part 2 I’ll be looking at the period 1750 – 1850 and the agricultural developments in the area.

 

 

 

 

Tha làrach-lìn spaideil ùr againn a-nis: http://seaboardhistory.com/

Tha cuspairean eadar-dhealaichte ann, mar School. Fishing. Villages. People. Sports. War,

agus fiosrachadh mun Fisherfolk Festival anns an Ògmhios:

http://seaboardhistory.com/the-fisherfolk-festival/

Tha fiù ‘s Gàidhlig aige – ath-fhoillseachadh sreath artaigilean mu ainmean-àite Machair Rois.

http://seaboardhistory.com/gallery/gaelic-in-the-villages/

Bidh stuth ùr ga cur ris fad na h-ùine.  Thoir sùil air!

We have a brand-new Seaboard History site! All sorts of fascinating topics, even Gaelic in the Villages. Have a look!

 

 

Leòdhas is na Hearadh os cionn na Roinn Eòrpa

 A thaobh cruinn-eòlais, chan e ach aon eilean a th’ ann an Eilean Leòdhais is na Hearadh, ged a bhios sinn a’ bruidhinn mun deidhinn mar dhà eilean air leth. Tha dà choimhearsnachd eadar-dhealaichte ann ge-tà, gun teagamh, agus fèin-aithne làidir aig gach tè, is còmhstri chàirdeil eadarra. Ach uaireannan tha e feumail gabhail ris an fhirinn chruinn-eòlasach, gu h-àraidh nuair a bhios duaisean rin coisinn!

Tha fios againne gu bheil eileanan na h-Alba am measg na feadhna as bòidhche air an t-saoghal, ach tha e gu sònraichte tlachdmhor nuair a bhios buidhnean eadar-nàiseanta mar TripAdvisor, aig a bheil buaidh mhòr anns a’ choimhearsnachd luchd-siubhail, a’ tighinn chun an aon cho-dhùnaidh. Tha iad dìreach air na liostaichean 2014 aca fhoillseachadh, agus am measg eileanan na Roinn Eòrpa ‘s e eilean Leòdhais is na Hearadh a tha anns a’ chiad àite, os cionn eileanan nas ainmeile leithid Naxos, Santorini agus Capri:

Priomh Eileanan Eòrpach

1. Leòdhas ‘s na Hearadh, Alba

2. Naxos, a’ Ghrèig

3. Eilean Ghòso, Malta

4. Arcaibh, Alba

5. Milos, a’ Ghrèig

6. Cephalonia, a’ Ghrèig

7. Santorini, a’ Ghrèig

8. Eilean Chapri, an Eadailt

9. Eilean Mhuile, Alba

10. Paros, a’ Ghrèig

Chì sinn gu bheil Arcaibh agus Eilean Mhuile anns a’ chiad deich cuideachd – tha an luchd-siubhail a bhios a’ cleachdadh TripAdvisor gu math deidheil air Alba, gu follaiseach. Anns an liosta Bhreatannach, tha sia eileanan Albannach anns a’ chiad deich: Leòdhas is na Hearadh anns a’ chiad àite a-rithist, Arcaibh (2), Muile (3), an t-Eilean Sgitheanach (5), Eilean Arainn (6) agus Ìle (8).  Agus fiù ‘s anns an liosta nam prìomh 10 eileanan san t-saoghal, tha Leòdhas is na Hearadh anns a’ choigeamh àite, air thoiseach air àiteachean tropaigeach mar Mhadagascar no Thailand.

Ach carson a tha na h-eileanan againn cho soirbheachail gu h-obann? Thèid na liostaichean a chur ri chèile a rèir beachdan luchd-tadhail (nam ball TripAdvisor) mu àiteachan-fuirich, seirbheisean mar taighean-bìdh agus gu h-àraidh àireamh agus càileachd de chinn-uidhe turasachd.  Chan urrainn dhomh fhìn bruidhinn mu thaighean-òsta agus taighean-bìdh spaideil – ‘s e B&Ban agus cafaidhean a bhios mise a’ cleachdadh nuair a bhios mi a’ siubhal, agus tha iadsan glè mhath – ach tha iad ann, a rèir coltais. Bidh na taighean-bìdh a’ cleachdadh toradh ùr à muir, monadh is achadh, agus tha cliù mòr aig biadh sònraichte ionadail mar mharag dhubh à Steòrnabhagh.

Faodaidh mi aontachadh mu dheidhinn nan ceann-ùidhe tarraingeach, ge-tà. ‘S e dualchas sònraichte nàdarra, eachdraidheil agus cultarach a tha aig na h-Eileanan Siar (agus aig Arcaibh agus na h-eileanan eile cuideachd), agus bidh luchd-tadhail a’ gabhal fìor thlachd às. ‘S e Bliadhna Nàdair na h-Alba a bh’ ann an 2013, le mòran sanasachd air an teilebhisean agus an eadar-lìon, agus sreath BhBC ‘Hebrides – Islands on the Edge’, a bhrosnaich ùidh anns an àrainneachd a tha gu ìre mhath gun mhilleadh anns na h-eileanan.

Tha pailteas de dh’fhiadh-bheatha aca leithid eòin-chreachaidh, fiadh agus ròin, agus fiù ‘s mucan-mara.  Tha seallaidhean mìorbhaileach ann cuideachd, eadar na creagan garbha taobh Nis, na baighean bòidheach mar Dalmòr taobh an iar Leòdhais, agus Ùig, far an deach Fir-Taileisg Leòdhais a lorg, agus na tràighean rìomhach, fada is falamh, anns na Hearadh, leithid Losgaintir.

A thaobh eachdraidh, tha tuilleadh ‘s a’ chòir ri fhaicinn. Ann an Leòdhas feumaidh gach neach-tadhail a dhol do na làraichean àrsaidh drùidhteach a th’ anns na Tursachan Chalanais agus Dùn Chàrlabhaigh, agus do Bhaile nan Geàrrannan gus na ‘taighean dubha’ agus an dòigh-bheatha tradiseanta fhaicinn. Anns na Hearadh ‘s e Eaglais Ròghadail a tha a’ tighinn a-steach orm an toiseach – togalach brèagha e fhèin agus làn chlachan-uaighe àrsaidh agus leacan snaighte tarraingeach eile.

Agus tha cultar sònraichte gu leòr ann cuideachd. Tha coimhearsnachdan Gàidhlig ann fhathast, tha Radio nan Gàidheal agus MG Alba stèidhichte ann an Steòrnabhagh, agus tha ceòl agus seinn tradiseanta fhathast làidir – rugadh is thogadh mòran de na seinneadairean Gàidhlig as fheàrr ann an Leòdhas, m.e. Isbeal NicAsgail agus Màighread Stiùbhairt, agus tha ginealach ùr dhiubh a’ tighinn suas cuideachd – seinneadairean òga mar Chatrìona Watt agus Isbeal Ann Mhàrtainn a bhios a’ cumail an dualchas beò. Agus chan fhaod sinn an t-salmadaireachd gun choimeas anns na h-eaglaisean clèireach a dhìochuimneachadh, rud a dhrùidheas gu mòr air luchd-tadhail, agus na fèisean nas ùire m.e. Fèis Cheilteach Innse Gall .

Tha obraichean tradiseanta mar iasgach, croitearachd agus clò-Hearach cudromach fhathast san latha an-diùgh, agus tradisean ainmeil na seilge-guga ann an Nis, agus tha na gnìomhachasan crùthachail agus dùthchail a’ fàs – ealan, dràma, obair-làimhe, biadh speisealta ionadail amsaa. Tha fiù ‘s taigh-staile ùr ann, ann an Ùig, Abhainn Dearg.

Ach tha mi fhìn den bheachd gur e ‘blas’ sònraichte nan Eilean air fad a tha cho tairraingeach – an solas, an aimsir, na dathan, an aonaranachd. Tha mòran daoine – ann am Breatainn is àiteachan eile – sgìth de làithean-saora ‘pacaid’ àbhaisteach, agus de chinn-uidhe a tha ro dhùmhail agus teth. Tha iad a’ fàs nas deidheile air dùthchannan taobh a tuath na Roinn Eòrpa, leithid Nirribhidh no Innis Tìle.

Aig feasgar-leughaidh ann an Inbir Nis bliadhna no dhà air ais bha Peter May, ùghdar a sgrìobh The Lewis Trilogy (agus an siabann telebhisein Gàidhlig ‘Machair‘ ron a sin) ag ràdh nach robh ùidh sam bith aig foillseachairean anns a chiad leabhair den trilogy aige, The Black House, nuair a sgrìobh e e, o chionn gu bhith fichead bliadhna. ‘S e nobhail-mhuirt a th’ ann, ach a-rèir choltais bha Eilean Leòdhai mar àite-sgeòil “ro ghruamach”, cha robh e “romànsach gu leòr”. Ach as dèidh soirbheas nan leabhraichean ‘Nordic noir’, m.e. le Henning Mankell no Stieg Larsson, bha àiteachan iomallach, aonaranach, le àrainneachd sònraichte, a’ fàs na bu tharraingiche do luchd-leughaidh – agus do luchd-siubhail.

Cò aig a bha dùil gun tigeadh a’ phiseach seo air cliù Eilean Leòdhais is na Hearadh?

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Lewis and Harris top European Islands list

Geographically speaking, Lewis and Harris are one single island, even though we tend to talk about them as two separate ones. They are certainly two different communities with strong senses of identities, though, with a friendly rivalry between them. But sometimes it’s convenient to go along with the geographical facts, especially when there are prizes to be won!

We ourselves know that the Scottish islands are amongst the most beautiful in the world, but it’s particularly gratifying when international groups like TripAdvisor, which has widespread influence on the independent travel community, come to the same conclusion. They have just published their 2014 lists, and the island of Lewis and Harris make the first place in the Top Ten European Islands, ahead of more famous islands such as Naxos, Santorini and Capri.

TripAdvisor’s Top 10 European islands

1: Lewis and Harris, Scotland

2: Naxos, Greece

3: Island of Gozo, Malta

4: Orkney Islands, Scotland

5: Milos, Greece

6: Cephalonia, Greece

7: Santorini, Greece

8: Island of Capri, Italy

9: Isle of Mull, Scotland

10: Paros, Greece

We see that Orkney and Mull are in the top 10 too – TripAdvisor’s members are evidently very fond of Scotland. There are also six Scottish islands in the British Islands Top Ten: Lewis and Harris in first place again, Orkney (2), Mull (3), Skye (5), Arran (6) and Islay (8).  And even in the World Islands Top Ten, Lewis and Harris are in fifth place, ahead of some in tropical places like Madagascar and Thailand.

But why are our islands suddenly so successful? The lists are based on the feedback of travellers (TripAdvisor members) regarding accommodation, services like restaurants, and especially the number and quality of visitor atttractions. I can’t comment myself on smart hotels and restaurants – I tend to use B&Bs and cafés when I’m travelling – but evidently they exist. The restaurants use fresh produce from sea, moor, and field, and local specialities like Stornoway black pudding have quite a reputation.

I have to agree about the visitor attractions, though. The Hebrides have a very special natural, historical and cultural heritage (as do Orkney and the other islands), and visitors really appreciate it. 2013 was the Year of Natural Scotland, with a great deal of advertisng on TV and the internet, and the BBC series Hebrides – Islands on the Edge stimulated interest in the islands’ largely unspoiled environment.

They have a wealth of wild-life, such as birds of prey, deer, seals, even whales. There are marvellous views to be had too, between the wild crags of Ness, the lovely bays of western Lewis such as Dalmore, and Uig, where the Lewis Chessmen were found, and the majestic beaches of Harris, long and empty, like Luskentyre.

As regards history, there is more than enough to see. Every visitor to Lewis has to go to the impressive ancient sites of the Callanish Stones and the broch of Carloway, and to the ‘black houses’ of Na Geàrrannan village to see how people used to live. In Harris it’s Rodel Church that first springs to mind  – a lovely building in itself, and full of ancient gravestones and other fascinating carved slabs.

There is also a remarkable cultural heritage. There are still Gaelic-speaking communities, Radio nan Gàidheal and MG Alba are based in Stornoway, and traditional music and song is strong here. Many of the best Gaelic singers were born and bred in Lewis, e.g. Ishbel MacAskill and Margaret Stewart, and there’s a new generation coming up – young singers like Catriona Watt and Isobel Ann Martin, who are keeping the tradition alive. We shouldn’t forget the unique psalm-singing of the Presbyterian churches either, something that makes a powerful impression on visitors, and the more recent festivals, like the Hebridean Celtic Festival (HebCelt).

Traditional occupations like fishing, crofting and Harris tweed are still important today, not to mention the famous guga-hunt of Ness, and creative and rural enterprises are growing – art, drama, handicrafts, local food specialities etc. There is even a new distillery at Uig, Abhainn Dearg (Red River).

But I myself think that it’s the special ‘flavour’ of the islands as a whole that is so fascinating – the light, the climate, the colours, the solitude. Many people, in Britain and elsewhere, are tired of conventional ‘package’ holidays and of crowded, hot tourist destinations. They are beginning to prefer Northern European countries, like Norway and Iceland. At a reading in Inverness a year or two ago, Peter May, author of The Lewis Trilogy (and of the Gaelic soap Machair before that), said that when he wrote the first book in his trilogy, The Black House, almost 20 years ago, there was no interest at all in it from publishers: although it’s a crime novel, the Lewis setting was “too stark”, “not romantic enough”. But since the success of the ‘Nordic noir’ thrillers, such as those by Henning Mankell and Stieg Larssen, remote, lonely places with a special atmosphere have become more attractive to readers – and to travellers.

Lewis and Harris – an island whose time has come?

 

Here’s a song in praise of Eilean Fraoich – Island of Heather, as Lewis is known in song, written by William Mackenzie of Lewis (1857-1907), sung here by the trio Mackenzie, well-known musical sisters from Gress in Lewis: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TM8RA64cbGs

Update March 2015: our nearest relative in North America, Gaelic-imbued Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia, Canada, has just been voted best island in North America and 3rd best island world-wide, ahead of Hawaii! http://www.macleans.ca/society/life/the-third-best-island-in-the-world/

These Gaels and their islands are just irresistible! 🙂

 

Here I am reading this blog (slightly adapted) in April 2015 on Guth nan Gàidheal, US internet radio Gaelic programme, from about 28:30 minutes in.

http://gng.acgamerica.org/2015/04/12/asa4/

 

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Cnoc Fhaoighris

Sgrìobh mi mu Bheinn Uais mìos no dhà air ais, agus a-nis ‘s ann aig Cnoc Fhaoighris a tha an turas: an cnoc ainmeil, 1478 tròigh a dh’àirde, leis a’ charragh-cuimhne air a mhullach, a tha ri fhaicinn air cùl Bhaile Eòghainn agus Alanais. Bha an darna latha den Fhaoilleach uabhasach brèagha am bliadhna agus choisich mi dhan mhullach còmhla ri chàirdean. Cha robh sinn idir nar n-aonar –  a rèir choltais bha an darna leth muinntir Rois an Ear den bheachd gun do dh’ith ‘s do dh’òl iad fada cus rè na seachdain a dh’fhalbh, agus bha iad a’ dèanamh feum dhen t-sìde bhrèagha gus beagan àile ghlain agus eacarsaich fhaighinn. No a’ toirt gu buil aon de na rùintean na Bliadhn’ Ùir aca, ‘s dòcha?

Tha fios aig a’ mhòrchuid againn air cnàmhan lom sgeul a’ charraigh-chuimhne – an Rìdire Eachann Rothach à Taigh an Fhuamhair agus an “cothrom-obrach” tuigseach aige san 18mh linn –  ach ma bhios sinn a’ dèanamh beagan rannsachaidh, tha cùl-fiosrachaidh mòran nas inntinniche ann, ceangailte rin Rìdire fhèin agus ri tachartasan cudromach ann an eachdraidh na linn sin.

Rugadh Eachann Rothach mu 1725, agus mar dhuine òg à mion-mheur nan Rothach bha e na shaighdear cumanta air taobh nan Hanobharach an aghaidh nan Seumasach. Aon oidhche, le tuiteamas, shàbhail e a’ Bhan-diùc Ghòrdain nuair a bha an gille-greasaidh aice fo mhisg; a rèir choltais chuidich i e comisean rèisimeideach fhaighinn mar thaing, agus mar sin thòisich an dreuchd fhada ainmeil aige san arm, a’ mhòrchuid dhith sna h-Innseachan, gus leas malairt na h-Ìmpireachd (agus an East India Company) a dhìon an aghaidh nam Frangach.

Mar cheannard a’ Bhengal Presidency Army chuidich e ceannairc nan sepoys (saighdearan Innseanach) a chur sios ann an 1764, agus sin gu spraiceil: ” No believer in taking a soft line Munro decided that the only way to deal with the sepoys, whether their grievances were justified or not, was to execute the ringleaders in typical EIC fashion – by tying them to the wheels of a cannon and blowing them apart. He also disbanded the most rebellious native regiment.” http://scottishmilitary.blogspot.co.at/2011/08/sir-hector-munro-whos-who-in-scottish.html

Ann an 1765 bhuannaich e a’ bhuaidh a bu mhòtha aige aig Buxar, anns a bhith a’ cur cath-innleachd air leth an gnìomh, le ach 7,000 daoine an aghaidh 40,000 saighdearan Mughal. Leis an airgead-duais leig e dheth an comisean aige agus thill e na ghaisgeach a Bhreatainn, far an do cheannaich e roinn-taghaidh ‘Inverness Burghs’ ann am Pàrlamaid agus thàinig e a dh’fhuireach aig Taigh an Fhuamhair, a fhuair e mar dhìleab bho uncail.

Bho shin a-mach thug e ùine gu “leasachaidhean” air an oighreachd, mar a bha am fasan aig an àm. Bha am fearann an sin neo-thorrach, gun chraobhan, agus gun mòran chothroman-obrach do mhuinntir na sgìre, agus anns an ath dheichead dh’atharraich Eachann cruth nan taighean agus an fhearainn gu tur, le leasachaidhean-talmhainn agus planntachadh chraobhan (nam measg na ciad learagan san sgìre), agus cuideachd thog e iomadh carragh, teampall agus geata ann an stoidhle “Innseanach” air feadh an oighreachd – rud a chuir iongnadh mòr air na nabaidhean na bu stuaime aige.

Mar a bhiodh dùil thàinig an latha nuair a theirig an t-airgead, agus ann an 1777 thill e chun nan Innseachan mar cheannard an airm ann am Madras. An turas seo cha robh a h-uile rud a cheart cho glòrmhor – shoirbhich leis ann am Pondichéry agus Negapatnam, ach thug e mì-bhreith air neart arm mòr Hyder Ali, ceannard Mysore, agus chaill e an cath cudromach aig  Conjeeveram. B’ e sin adhbhar nàire dha, agus rinn e cron air a’ chliù aige.

Thill e a-rithist a dh’Alba ann an 1782, an turas seo le rud beag nas lugha de dh’airgead-duais, agus thòisich e – mar iomadh uachdaran Gàidhealach eile – caoraich a thoirt a-steach dhan oighreachd, rud a dh’adhbharaich mì-thoileachas am measg an luchd-gabhail a chaill am fearann agus a’ bheòshlaint aca – fuadaichean ionadail, mar gum biodh. Fhuair an seanailear (a chuir sios na sepoys cho cruaidh deich bliadhna fichead roimhe) an t-arm agus chuir e sios an t-ar-a-mach beag seo cuideachd, ann an 1792. Ach bha e mothachail, gu follaiseach, gum bu chòir dha rudeigin a dhèanamh airson muinntir na sgìre a bha nan èiginn, ged – tha fhios – a bhiodh aca ri obair airson an airgid. Chunnaic e cothrom sin a chur air dòigh agus aig an aon àm an cùrsa-dreachd glòrmhor aige sna h-Innseachan a chomharrachadh mar bu chòir. Bha clachan-chuimhne gu leòr aige sgapte air feadh a’ chòmhnaird mar-thà; rachadh an tè seo a thogail air a’ mhullach a b’ àirde den oighreachd – air Cnoc Fhaoighris.

Chan eil fhios againn an robh an luchd-obrach taingeal no nach robh, agus chan eil fhios againn nas motha a bheil an sgeul ainmeil fìor dha-rìribh gun do roilig sioft na-h-oidhche na clachan sios an cnoc a thog sioft an latha suas, gus barrachd obrach a chruthachadh; tha mi ‘n dòchas nach eil. Abair dìmeas air saothair daonna! Ach tha fios againn gun robh an carragh-cuimhne air a pheantadh geal bho thùs, agus gu bheil dà charragh-cuimhne nas lugha eile faisg air làimh, air Cnoc Ruadh agus Meann Chnoc, falaichte am measg nan craobhan an-diugh. Bha plana ann an toiseach an trì a cheangal ri chèile le balla, ach cha do thachair sin – ‘s dòcha gun do theirig an t-airgead a-rithist. Thathar ag ràdh cuideachd gur e lethbhreac geataichean baile Negapatnam a th’ ann, ach chan eil fìor fhianais de seo ann; tha e nas coltaiche nach e ach togalach eile ann an stoidhle fharsaing “Innseanach” a bh’ ann, mar a bha na clachan-cuimhne eile air an oighreachd.

Ge brith dè an fhirinn, mhair an carragh-cuimhne faicsinneach tarraingeach, agus thug iomadh duine ainmeil air tadhail sa Ghàidhealtachd iomradh air, m.e. am bàrd Robert Southey agus am peantair W M Turner (rinn esan sgeidse dheth). Agus dè thachair ri Eachann Rothach fhèin? Bha dithis mhac aige a chaochail roimhe, sna h-Innseachan – chaidh aon dhiubh a mharbhadh le tìgear, am fear eile le siorc. Chaochail Eachann aig Taigh an Fhuamhair ann an 1805, a rèir choltais ag ionndrainn na h-Innseachan fhathast; chaidh an oighreachd dhan nighean aige, a phòs Ronald Ferguson à Raith, agus dh’atharraich ainm an teaghlaich gu Munro Ferguson, an aon teaghlach aig a bheil an oighreachd an-diugh. Agus an t-ainm ‘Fyrish’ fhèin? A rèir eòlaiche ainmean-àite Rois is Chrombaidh, W J Watson, ‘s e ainm Lochlannach no Cruithneach a th’ ann, chan e Gàidhlig no Albais.

An ath thuras nuair a bhios sibh a’ dràibheadh seachad air Faoighris, no a’ coiseachd suas an cnoc gus na seallaidhean brèagha a mhealadh, faodaidh sibh a bhith a’ smaointinn air na ceanglaichean eadar ar pìos beag Rois an Ear agus saoghal glòrmhor ach an-iochdmhor na h-Ìmpireachd Breatannaich sna h-Innseachan, agus cuideachd air na fuadaichean agus an èiginn a bha air cùl na h-oighreachdan “leasaichte” a tha rim faicinn san latha an diugh.

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Fyrish

I wrote about Ben Wyvis a month or two ago, and now it’s the turn of Fyrish, the famous hill (1478 ft) with the monument on top, seen behind Evanton and Alness. 2nd January was a beautiful day this year and I walked up to the top with relatives. We weren’t alone up there – clearly half of Easter Ross thought they’d eaten and drunk too much over the last week, and were taking advantage of the lovely weather to get some fresh air and exercise. Or maybe they were implementing one of their New Year’s resolutions?

Most of us know the bare bones of the Fyrish story – Sir Hector Munro of Novar and his ‘kind’ work-opportunity scheme in the 18th century – but if we do a bit of research, there’s much more interesting background information, linked to Sir Hector himself and to important events in the history of that century.

Hector Munro was born around 1725, and as a young man from a minor branch of the Munro family he served as a regular soldier for the Hanoverians against the Jacobites. One night, by chance, he was able to rescue the Duchess of Gordon from a coach driven by a drunk postillion, and as thanks, she apparently helped him to his first regimental commission. So began his long and illustrious career in the army, much of it spent in India protecting the trade interests of the British Empire (and the East Indian Company).

As commander of the Bengal Presidency Army he helped put down a mutiny by sepoys (Indian soldiers) in 1764, in the brutal fashion of the day: ” No believer in taking a soft line Munro decided that the only way to deal with the sepoys, whether their grievances were justified or not, was to execute the ringleaders in typical EIC fashion – by tying them to the wheels of a cannon and blowing them apart. He also disbanded the most rebellious native regiment.” http://scottishmilitary.blogspot.co.at/2011/08/sir-hector-munro-whos-who-in-scottish.html

In 1765 he won his most famous victory at Buxar, by implementing brilliant military strategy to defeat 40,000 Mughal soldiers with only 7,000 men. With the prize money he resigned his commission and returned as a hero to Britain. He bought himself a parliamentary seat (‘Inverness Burghs’) and came to live on Novar Estate, which he had inherited from his uncle.

From then on he devoted himself to “improvements” on the estate, as was then the fashion. The land was infertile and treeless, with little work for the locals, and in the next decade or so Munro transformed the houses and the land, improving the soil, planting trees (including the first larches in the area) and also erecting numerous monuments, temples and gates in “Indian” style all over the estate – to the amazement of his more staid neighbours.

Predictably, the money finally ran out, and Munro returned to India in 1777 as commander of the Madras army. This time things didn’t turn out quite as gloriously. He was succesful at Pondichéry and Nagapatnam, but he misjudged the strength of the great army of Hyder Ali, commander of Mysore, and lost the vital battle of Conjeeveram. This was a source of shame to him, and harmed his reputation.

He returned to Scotland in 1782, with slightly less prize money, and began – like many another Highland laird – to introduce sheep to the estate, which caused discontent among the tenants who lost their land and their livelihood – local clearances, as it were. The general (who had quashed the sepoys so harshly 30 years earlier) had no compunction about getting in the army to quell this little rebellion too. But he realised, it seems, that he had to do something for the local people in their distress, although – of course – they would have to work for their money. He saw an opportunity to combine this with commemorating his glorious military career in India in an appropriate way. He already had monuments scattered all over the lower ground, but this one would be built on the highest point of the estate – on Fyrish.

We don’t know whether the workforce was grateful or not, and we don’t know either if the famous story is really true – that the night-shift rolled the stones down the hill that the day-shift had carried up it, to create more work; I hope not. What disrespect for human labour! But we do know that the monument was painted white at first, and that there are two smaller monuments nearby, on Cnoc Ruadh and Meann Chnoc. Originally they were all meant to be connected by a wall, but this never happened – maybe the money ran out again. The monument is also said to be a copy of the city gates of Nagapatnam, but there is no evidence of this. It’s more likely that it’s a generic “Indian”-style erection, like the others on the estate.

Whatever the truth, the monument remained conspicuous and fascinating, and many famous visitors to the Highlands commented on it, such as the poet Robert Southey and the painter WM Turner (who sketched it). And what happened to Sir Hector himself? He had two sons who died before him in India – one was killed by a tiger, the other by a shark. Hector himself died in Novar in 1805, apparently still missing India. The estate passed to his daughter who married a Ronald Ferguson of Raith, and the family name was changed to Munro Ferguson – the same family who have the estate today. And the name “Fyrish” itself? According to the expert on Ross-shire placenames, WJ Watson, it’s a Norse or Pictish name in origin, not a Gaelic or Scots one.

So the next time you drive past Fyrish, or climb it to enjoy the beautiful views, remember the links between our wee corner of Easter Ross and the glorious but cruel world of the British Empire in India, and also remember the the clearances and the hardship that were behind every “improved” estate we can see today.

Dealbh Eachainn /Sir Hector Munro portrait: Creative Commons http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sir_Hector_Munro_by_David_Martin.jpg

‘S e baile eachdraidheil brèagha a th’ ann an Riga, prìomh-bhaile Latbhia, fàilteach is goireasach do luchd-turais. Tha iomadachd iongantach ailtireachd aige, bho thogalaichean breige Hanseatigeach gu taighean Art Nouveau mìorbhailteach sgeadaichte, gach stoidhle mar fhianais air an eachdraidh chaochlaideach – eaconamach is poiliteagach – aig Riga agus Latbhia thairis air na linntean. Bha fiù ‘s àrd-bhàillidh le tùsan Albannach aca mu 1900.

Bha mi ann fad 3 làithean anns an Dàmhair còmhla ri buidheann bheag. Dh’fhuirich sinn san “taigh-òsta” Konventa Seta, seòrsa baile bhig e fhèin ann an cridhe an t-Seann Bhaile. ‘S e clochar a bh’ ann sna Meadhan Aoisean, far an robh mnathan-cràbhaidh agus banntraichean, na “Grey Sisters”, a’ fuireach. Faodaidh mi a mholadh mar àite-fuirich. Tha e fìor thlachdmhor a bhith a’ coiseachd tro Riga. Tha cha mhòr an Seann Bhaile gu lèir na àrainn-choisichean, agus tha mòran phàircean ann, beaga is mòra. Tha e furasda gach àite inntinneach an sin a ruigsinn air chois – a dh‘aindeoin nan clachan-sràide eachdraidheil, àlainn ach neo-chunbhalach.

Tha cafaidhean agus taighean-bìdh gu leòr ann, gach fear le caractar eadar-dhealaichte agus le prìsean gu math reusanta. Nam measg tha ‘Black Magic‘, àite eadar cafaidh agus poitigeir meadhan-aoiseach, ainmeil airson ‘Riga Black Balsam’, seòrsa dighe dìomhair a tha na leigheas do gach tinneas. A rèir coltais tha blas gu math ìocshlainteach aige, ach cha do dh’fheuch sinn e!

Tha pailteas eaglaisean aig Riga, gu h-àiridh an fheadhainn mheadhan-aoiseach. Chòrd a’ chathair-eaglais leis na clabhsairean bòidheach gu mòr rinn, agus Naomh Peadar le tùr ealanta le trì làir agus lobht-amhairc. Tha eaglaisean ann à gach linn agus de gach seòrsa, bho Lutharach gu Ortadogsach, agus tha mòran dhiubh air an ath-bheothachadh às dèidh do Latbhia a neo-eisimealachd fhaighinn bho na Sovietaich ann an 1991. Bha sinn ann an tòrr dhiubh – agus bha sinn fortanach ceòl a chluinntinn anns a’ mhòrchuid dhiubh.

Tha na Latbhianaich glè dhèidheil air ceòl is seinn, agus fìor mhoiteil gun do shoirbhich leotha an cultar agus an cànan aca a ghleidhadh fad mòran àmannan tàinisteis chèin. Chuala sinn ceòl tradiseanta Latbhiach aig cuirm ri taobh an Ìmhaigh na Saoirse aca – chuir e nar cuimhne seinn Ghàidhlig, gu h-àiridh leis na seàlaichean breacanach a bha air cuid de na seinneadairean, agus fiù ‘s pìobaire an làthair.

Aon mhadainn chaidh sinn dhan Mhargadh Mheadhain ana-mhòr, le bùithtean feòla, èisg, càise amssa ann an ochd hangaran àibheiseach, agus air an taobh a-muigh bùithtean gun àireamh de gach seòrsa – flùraichean, measan, aodach, bathar cruaidh is eileagtronaigeach, basgaidean, buill-mhaise is eile. Tha iomadh margadh-ceàirde beag air feadh a’ bhaile cuideachd, le obair-fhighe, obair-ghrèise agus sliopairean peileig annasach air cruth luchan is ainmhidhean eile.

An latha mu dheireadh againn chaidh sinn air an trèana a Jurmalla, baile spatha air a chosta faisg air Riga, àite tlachdmhor ann an stoidhle eadar Art Nouveau agus ‘dacha’ Ruiseanach, ach le sealladh rud beag fàs, muladach aige às dèidh ràithe shamhraidh. Choisich sinn air a’ phriomh-shràid fhada leis na bùithtean beaga (mòran le adan is aodach spadeil airson mhnathan-uasal aosta) agus cafaidhean seasgair, agus cuideachd air an tràigh ghainmheil fharsaing fhada air cùl sreath chraobhan giuthais. Am measg nan craobhan chunnaic sinn villas fiodha ealanta, agus taighean-samhraidh nas lugha le gàrraidhean beaga – a mhòrchuid fàs san Dàmhair. Tha blas sònraichte, taitneach air an àite – chòrd e rinn. Chòrd a’ chuairt-trèana rinn cuideachd agus nuair a thill sinn air ais thairis air an drochaid gu Riga, fhuair sinn sealladh mu dheireadh air fàire an t-Seann Bhaile, làn tùr uasal.

Barrachd fiosrachaidh an seo: http://www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga

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Riga, the capital of Latvia, is a beautiful historic city, welcoming and accessible for tourists. It has an amazing variety of architecture, from Hanseatic brick to fantastically decorated Art Nouveau, each different style a witness to the changing economic and political fortunes of Riga – and Latvia – over the centuries. They even had a mayor of Scottish extraction around 1900.

I was there for 3 days in October, with a small group. We stayed in the ‘hotel’ Konventa Seta, a kind of village in its own right in the heart of the Old Town. It was a convent in the Middle Ages, where nuns and widows lived – the ‘Grey Sisters’. I can recommend it as a place to stay. It’s really delightful just to walk around Riga. Almost the whole of the Old Town is a pedestrian zone, and there are lots of green spaces, small and large. It’s very easy to get everywhere interesting on foot – despite the picturesque but uneven historic cobblestones.

There are plenty of cafés and restaurants there, each one with its own different character, and reasonably priced too. Among them is ‘Black Magic’, something between a café and a mediaeval apothecary, and famous for ‘Riga Black Balsam’, a kind of cure-all secret potion. Apparently it tastes quite medicinal – we didn’t try it!

There’s a wealth of churches in Riga, especially mediaeval ones. We particularly liked the cathedral with its beautiful cloisters, and St Peter’s with its elegant three-tiered tower with viewing platform. There are churches of every epoch and every kind there, from Lutheran to Orthodox, and many of them have been experiencing a revival since Latvia became independent from the Soviets in 1991. We were in a good many of them, and were lucky enough to hear some kind of music in most of these.

The Latvians are very fond of music and singing, and extremely proud that they have managed to keep their culture and their language alive throughout the many periods of foreign occupation they have suffered. We heard traditional Latvian music at a festival around the foot of their ‘Statue of Liberty’ one night – it reminded us of Gaelic singing, especially given the tartan shawls some of the singers were wearing, and the presence of a bagpiper.

One morning we went to the huge Central Market, with shops selling meat, fish, cheese etc inside eight vast hangars, and countless stalls of every kind outside, selling flowers, fruit, clothes, ironmongery, electronics, baskets, ornaments etc. There are also many small craft markets scattered around the city, with knitwear, needlework, embroidery and curious felt slippers in the form of mice and other creatures.

On our last day we went on the train to Jurmalla, a spa resort on the coast near Riga, an attractive place built in a style somewhere between Art Nouveau and Russian ‘dacha’, but rather deserted and melancholy out-of-season. We walked the length of its long main street lined with little shops (many selling hats and posh outfits for elderly ladies) and cosy cafés, and also along its long wide sandy beach behind a fringe of pine woods. Among the trees we could see elegant wooden villas and smaller summer-houses with little gardens – most of them deserted in October. There’s a very individual, charming atmosphere to the place – we really liked it. We also enjoyed the train-ride, and as we returned over the bridge to Riga, we had a last view of the Old Town skyline, bristling with proud towers.

More information here: http://www.inyourpocket.com/latvia/riga 

 

 

 

Seanfhaclan 4: Fàilte! Aoigheachd, biadh agus deoch.

Mar a tha fios againn, tha dualchas aoigheachd fada is làidir againn air a’ Ghàidhealtachd –  bhiodh riamh fàilte is biadh a’ feitheamh air luchd-tadhail sam bith a thàinig chun an dorais, ged nach biodh mòran agaibh fhèin san taigh, no ged nach biodh sibh ro mheasail orrasan no air a’ chinneadh aca. Agus nuair a bha subhachas sam bith ann, mar bhanais no baisteadh, cha robh caomhnadh air cosgais. Ach aig an aon àm b’ fheudar dhan fhear-an-taighe an aire a thoirt dha na taobhan practaigeach – m.e. biadh, deoch, luchd-chiùil a chur air dòigh agus a phàigheadh – agus mhothaicheadh e cuideachd nuair a bha neach-tadhail a’ mì-ghnàthachadh fhialaidheachd. Mar a shaoileadh sibh, cha bhiodh an fhàilte ceart cho blàth air gach fear, ged b’ fheudar fàilte a bhith ann. Chì sinn a h-uile rud anns na seanfhaclan a leanas – agus iad uile ceart cho fìor an-diugh ’s a bha iad riamh. .

Gaelic proverbs 4: Welcome! Hospitality, food and drink

As we know, we have a long, strong tradition of hospitality in the Highlands – there would always be a welcome and food waiting for any visitor who came to the door, even if you didn’t have much in the house for yourselves, or if you weren’t particularly fond of them or their clan. And when there was any kind of celebration, like a wedding or christening, no expense was spared. But at the same time the hosts had to pay attention to the practical aspects – e.g. to organise and pay for food, drink and musicians – and they would notice when a guest was abusing their generosity. It’s only to be expected that not everyone got an equally warm welcome , though a welcome there had to be. We see all of this in the proverbs which follow – all as true to today as they ever were.

 

1. Furain an t-aoigh a thig, greas an t-aoigh tha falbh.

Welcome the coming, speed the parting guest.

2. Am fear a thig gun chuireadh, suidhidh e gun iarraidh.

He who comes uninvited will sit down unasked.

3. Ge milis a’ mhil, cò dh’imlicheadh o bhàrr dri i?

Honey may be sweet, but who would lick it off a briar?

4. Bidh an t-ubhal as fheàrr air a’mheangan as àirde.

The best apple is on the highest bough

5. ’S fheàrr iasg beag na bhith gun iasg idir.

A little fish is better than no fish at all.

6. Gluais faicilleach le cupan làn.

Move carefully with a full cup.

7. Cha deoch-slàint, i gun a tràghadh.

It’s no health if the glass is not emptied.

8. Ge milis am fìon, tha e searbh ri dhìol.

The wine is sweet, the paying bitter.

9. Cha dèan ‘Tapadh leis an fhìdhlear’ am fìdhlear a phàigheadh.

A ‘thank you’ doesn’t pay the fiddler.

10. Am fear a bhios a’ riarachadh na maraig, bidh an ceann reamhar aige fhèin.

The man that divides the pudding will have the thick end to himself.

11. Bidh mìr a’ ghill’ èasgaidh air gach mèis.

The smart fellow’s share is on every dish.

12. Chan fhiach cuirm gun a còmhradh.

A feast is no good without conversation

13. S fheàrr am bonnach beag le beannachd na am bonnach mòr le mallachd.

Better the small scone with blessing than the large scone with cursing.

14. Beathaich thusa mis’ an-diugh, is beathaichidh mis’ thus’ am màireach.

You feed me today, and I’ll feed you tomorrow.