seaboardgàidhlig

Taigh-staile Toulvaddie

Bha cothrom agam o chionn ghoirid tadhal air àite tarraingeach dìreach air cùl nam bailtean, meanbh-thaigh-staile ùr, Toulvaddie, faisg air Easter Airfield. Rinn mi agallamh leis an stèidheadair, agus fhuair mi a-mach gu bheil rudan annasach gu leòr a thaobh an taigh-staile seo.

Sa chiad àite, ‘s e boireannach a stèidhich e, Heather Nelson, bho theaghlach tuathanach às an sgìre – a chiad bhoireannach a rinn seo o chionn Helen Cumming ann an Cardhu ann an 1811. Bha Heather ag obair ann an dreuchd gu tur eile, mar cho-stèidheadair companaidh-riochdachaidh telebhisein còmhla ris an duine aice, Bobby, ach bha riamh aisling aice an t-uisge-beatha aice fhèin a chruthachadh. Mar a thuirt i, chuir e iongnadh oirre dè cho eadar-dhealaichte ‘s a tha blas gach uile uisge-beatha, ged nach eil ach na h-aon trì grìdheidean (uisge, eòrna is beirm) anns gach seòrsa. Bha i airson faighinn a-mach dè na cothroman a bhiodh aice sin a stiùireadh i fhèin.  Bha ceum aice ann an Ceimigeachd, ach san eadar-àm fhuair i teisteanasan ann an grùdaireachd is stailigeadh.

Tha boireannaich eile ag obair ann an saoghal uisge-beatha san latha an-diugh, ach chan eil tè eile ann a stiùireas am pròiseas gu lèir, mar a nì Heather, no a tha an sàs anns an obair phractaigeach aig gach ceum, bho ròghnachadh an eòrna gu cur leubailean air na botail.  Tha an dealas, an cùram agus a’ mhoit aice follaiseach.

An darna rud a tha cho inntinneach, ‘s e gun do thog Heather agus an teaghlach aice an taigh-staile gu ìre mhòr iad fhèin. Tha e air làrach HMS Owl, raon-adhair an nèibhidh san Darna Chogadh, far an robh uair tuathanas beag Toulvaddie a bha le ginealaichean na bu tràithe teaghlach Heather. (Thàinig an t-ainm às a’ Ghàidhlig toll a’ mhadaidh.) Air sgàth dàlach a thaobh cead-planaidh agus le clìoradh an làraich, agus dàlach a bharrachd le Covid a dh’adhbharaich trioblaidean le stuth-togail is call cheann-latha le companaidhean-togail, b’ fheudar dhan teaghlach an obair a dhèanamh iad fhèin – drèanaichean a chladhadh, ùrlaran a leagail, ballachan a thogail agus fiù ‘s mullach an togalaich-riochdachaidh a chur suas: ionnsachadh le bhith ga dhèanamh. Faodaidh sibh na ceumannan uile fhaicinn air làrach-lìn an taigh-staile. Euchd fìor dhrùidhteach – ach bha na tuathanaich (mar na h-iasgairean) riamh cleachte ri an làmh a chur ri obair sam bith.

A-nis tha an taigh-staile ag obair is fosgailte dhan phoball, is iad uile gan cumail a’ dol ann an dòighean eile. Tha an obair-riochdachaidh agus am bar beag san aon talla mhòr, air a dhealabhachadh gu grinn. Tha measgachadh stàillinn deàrrsaich, fiodha is copair fìor àlainn, agus tha cuimhneachain thlachdmhor nan làithean a dh’fhalbh ann, le deasg seann-fhasanta agus caibineat-taisbeanaidh fiodha. Tha Heather gu math mothachail air ar dualchas stailigidh agus an geall air na dòighean-obrach traidiseanta aithneachadh – le gach rud air a dhèanamh a làimh. Chan eil dad meacanaigeach an seo. Gheibh gach ceum ùine gu leòr cuideachd, gus leigeil leis an spiorad leasachadh gu buileach. ‘S e cridhe an taigh-staile a tha anns an dà stail copair, làmh-òrdairichte, beag ach àlainn.

Ged a bheir e ùine mhòr gus am bi a chiad mhac na braiche abaich is anns a’ bhotal, tha an spiorad ùr-dhèanta ri fhaighinn mar-thà. Tha na baraillean daraich, làn uisge-beatha braiche ag aoiseachadh, gan stòradh air an làrach agus faodar an ceannachd is glèidheadh ro làimh.

Bidh sibh a’ faighinn fiosrachadh mionaideach mu eachdraidh an taigh-staile agus mu mar a nithar an t-uisge-beatha nuair a bhucas sibh fear de na tursan fìor phearsanta aca – faodaidh mi am moladh. A bharrachd air am bar beag anns an talla, tha gàrradh snog agus beingean is bùird a-muigh. Tha e math gnothachas-teaghlaich traidiseanta den leithid fhaicinn san sgìre againn, am meadhan tìr òir an eòrna Rois an Ear.

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Toulvaddie Distillery

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I recently had the chance to visit a fascinating place right behind the Seaboard Villages, close to Easter Airfield – a new micro-distillery, Toulvaddie. I interviewed the founder and discovered there are quite a few unusual features about this distillery.

The first is that it was founded by a woman, Heather Nelson, from a farming family in the area – the first woman to do this since Helen Cumming of Cardhu in 1811. Heather was working in a different field altogether, as co-founder of a television production compamy with her husband Bobby, but she always dreamed of creating her own whisky. As she says, it fascinated her how different the taste of every single whisky is, although they all have only the same three ingredients – water, barley and yeast. She wanted to find out how she could influence this herself. She had already studied chemistry, but in the meantime she has gained qualifications in brewing and distilling.

There are other women working in the whisky industry nowadays, but none of them is in complete charge of the whole process, nor themselves doing the practical work at each stage as Heather is, everything from selecting the barley to labelling the bottles. Her passion, care and pride in her product are evident.

The second unusual thing is that Heather and her family basically built the distillery themselves. It’s on the site of the former naval airbase HMS Owl, and previously was on the small farm of Toulvaddie owned by earlier generations of Heather’s family.  (The name comes from Gaelic toll a’ mhadaidh, and means hound’s, or possibly wolf’s, den.) Due to delays in planning permission and clearing the site, and then Covid meaning further delays with materials, and lost slots with contractors, the family ended up digging drains, laying floors, putting up the walls and even roofing the production building, learning on the job. You can follow the various stages on their website. An impressive achievement – but then farming (and fishing) folk are used to turning their hand to anything.

Now the distillery is in full operation and open to the public, still keeping them all busy. The production, along with a small bar, is all in the one big hall, and is beautifully laid out. The mixture of gleaming steel, wood, and copper is  very attractive, and there are charming reminders of the past in the old desk and the wooden display cabinet. Heather is very aware of tradition and keen to do things in a way that pays tribute to the old days of distilling, everything done by hand. Nothing here is mechanical. Each stage is also given plenty of time, allowing the spirit to develop fully. The two hand-hammered copper pot stills are the heart of the distillery, small but beautiful.

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Although it will take time to mature and bottle the first bottles of malt, the new-make spirit is available to buy already. The oak casks with the maturing malt are being stored on site and can themselves be bought in advance.

You’ll get the full details of the story of the distillery and how the whisky is made during one of their very personal tours – I can highly recommend them. As well as the small bar on site, there’s a lovely garden and seating area outside. It’s good to see a family business in this traditional industry established in our own local area, surrounded by the golden Easter Ross barley fields.

www.toulvaddiedistillery.com   Tel. 01862 808138.

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Gàrraidhean Caisteal Chaladair / Cawdor Castle Gardens

Tha mi cho fortanach ‘s gum bi mi a’ tadhail air Caisteal Chaladair iomadh uair gach seusan turasachd, leis gun toir mi tursan-bus ann bho na loidhnearan ann an Inbhir Ghòrdain. ‘S dòcha gun sgrìobh mi mun chaisteal fhèin ann an eagran eile, ach am mìos seo tha mi airson na gàrraidhean aige a mholadh; tha mi an dòchas gum bi na dealbhan cuideachd a’ bruidhinn air an son fhèin.

Tha gàrraidhean eadar-dhealaichte ann, agus gach aon na thlachd dhuinn. Am fear as fheàrr leam fhìn, ‘s e sin Gàrradh nam Flùraichean, am fear as fhaisge air a’ chaisteal, air a dhìon le seann bhalla àrd, le geadagan is ceumannan dathach de gach seòrsa, preasan is craobhan fo bhlàth, oiseanan brèagha air cùl challaidean a lorgas tu gun dùil, agus an-còmhnaidh an caisteal fhèin mar dhealbh-chùil. Tha e làn obrach-snaidhidh nuaidh drùidhtich cuideachd, freagarrach dhan t-suidheachadh aca. Nuair a thèid thu a-mach tro dhòras sa bhalla chì thu an Gàrradh Fiadhaich, coille le craobhan sequoia fuamhaireil ri taobh na h-aibhne ach cuideachd làn rhododendron is azalea, bhrogan na cuthaige is blàthan creamha, agus cheumannan lùbach togarrach, àlainn fhèin aig an àm seo.

Air taobh eile a’ chaisteil tha Gàrradh Cuairtichte eile ann, an turas seo le cuairtean mòr ceàrnagach is ìomhaigh a’ Mhinotaur sa teis-mheadhan. Timcheall air tha seòrsa tunail de laburnum òir-bhuidhe am measg dhìtheanan fiadhaich, dìreach drùidhteach. Air a chùlaibh tha an Gàrradh-Pàrrais beag, le callaidean ìosal is geadagan-luibhean, agus ìomhaigh snaidhte de dh’Àdhamh is Eubha a’ fàgail Èden. Agus an uair sin feumaidh tu an t-slighe a lorg a-steach dhan Ghàrradh Gheal chruinn, is e air a chuairteachadh le callaid àrd mhòr is làn fhlùraichean is phreasan geala – agus le fuaran simplidh ealanta sa mheadhan. Agus mu dhèireadh thall chì thu an t-Ubhal-ghort, cuideachd le ceapach mòr rùbraib – agus craobh mheatailt iongantach le grian no gealach mhòr anns na geugan.

Tha e ri fhaicinn gu bheil Ban-Iarla Chaladair, Lady Angelika, glè mheasail is eòlach air gàrraidhean, is i ag obair còmhla ri sgioba beag ghàirnealairean sgileil gus am bi dathan is caochladh anns gach ràith, agus tha an caisteal fhèin làn rèiteachaidhean-fhlùraichean às a’ ghàrradh.

Agus na gabh dragh – tha beingean gu leòr ann, agus cupa math tì a’ feitheamh ort sa chafaidh!

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I’m lucky enough to get to visit Cawdor Castle quite often each season as I take bus-tours there from the liners at Invergordon. I might write about the castle itself in another edition, but this month I wanted to recommend its gardens; and I hope the photos will also speak for themselves.

There are various gardens there, each one a delight. My favourite is the Flower Garden, the one nearest the castle, protected by a high old wall, with colourful flowerbeds and paths of all kinds, shrubs and trees in blossom, lovely corners you come upon unexpectedly behind hedges, and always the castle as backdrop. It’s also full of impressive, tasteful modern sculptures, appropriate to their surroundings. When you go through a door in the wall you see the Wild Garden, a woodland with giant sequoias by the river, and full of rhododendrons and azaleas, bluebells and wild garlic flowers, and inviting winding paths, just beautiful at this time of year.

On the other side of the castle there’s another Walled Garden, this time with a square maze, and a statue of the Minotaur in the centre. All around it there’s a kind of tunnel of golden laburnum among beds of wild flowers, just stunning. Behind it is the little Paradise Garden with low hedges and herb beds, and a small statue of Adam and Eve leaving Eden. Then you have to look for the way into the round White Garden, as it’s surrounded by huge high hedges, and is full of white flowers and shrubs – and has a simple but elegant fountain in the middle. And finally you’ll see the Orchard, which also has a large rhubarb bed, and an amazing metal tree with a big sun or moon in its branches.

It’s very evident that the Countess of Cawdor, Lady Angelika, is fond of gardens and very knowledgeable. She works with a small team of skilful gardeners so there’s colour and variety in every season, and the castle itself is also full of flower arrangements from the gardens.

But don’t worry – there are plenty of benches, and a nice cup of tea waiting for you in the cafe!

Further information: https://www.cawdorcastle.com/

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Sgrìobh mi an-uiridh mu Thaigh-solais a‘ Chinn Àird ann am Baile nam Frisealach. https://www.seaboardgaidhlig.com/2023/11/06/2023-an-t-samhain-an-ceann-ard-nov-kinnaird-head/  Dìreach ri thaobh tha Taigh-tasgaidh nan Taighean-solais Albannach, agus tha sin a-nis fosgailte a-rithist às dèidh obair is ùrachadh a’ gheamhraidh. Mar sin innsidh mi dhuibh beagan ma dheidhinn am mìos seo, agus mholainn tadhal air seo cuideachd, còmhla ri turas tron Taigh-solais a’ Chinn Àird fhèin. 

Tha an togalach làn stuth tarraingeach ceangailte ri taighean-solais agus cuideachd ri eachdraidh nan taighean-solais Albannach, gu h-àraidh cruinneachadh sònraichte de sholasan (“optics”) à iomadh taigh-solas air feadh na dùthcha, far an deach na stèiseanean sin ùrachadh. Tha cuid gu math mòr, àrd, agus faodaidh tu dol glè fhaisg orra fhad ‘s a bhios tu a’ coiseachd nam measg tron talla-thaisbeanaidh mhòr. Tha lionsaichean is lampaichean eile ann cuideachd, mòra is beaga, agus mìneachadh soilleir aig gach fear, m.e. tha solas taigh-solais Rubha na Cananaich ri fhaicinn an sin.

Tha storas an taighe-thasgaidh air a sgaoileadh thairis air dà ìre, le eachdraidh nan taighean-solais air a sealladh ‘s a mìneachadh sa phàirt suas an staidhre. An sin ionnsaichidh tu mu theaghlach ainmeil nan Stevensons, ach mu einseinnearan, dhèanadairean-lionsaichean, is luchd-togail cudromach eile cuideachd, a chluich pàirt mhòr, is mar as trice pàirt gu math dana, ann an cruthachadh sreath de thaighean-solais timcheall air costa carraigeach na h-Alba. Tha uidheam, cairtean, modailean ann, sgeulachdan mu mhi-shealbh is shàbhaladh, a h-uile rud a’ toirt beatha do sgeul tarraingeach nan togalaichean suaicheanta seo. Tha rudeigin inntinneach ann do gach neach, inbhich mar chlann. Chunnaic mi teaghlaichean gu lèir air am beò-ghlacadh leis na mìorbhailean an sin. As t-samradh tha geamaichean is cur-seachadan a bharrachd ann dhan chloinn cuideachd.

Tha aon rud sònraichte drùidhteach a chì thu thairis air an dà ìre, is sin solas taigh-solais Sanda à 1882 – tha feum air toll mòr eadar an dà làr gus a shealladh, is e cho àrd. Agus air a’ bhun-ùrlar tha barrachd ann mu na bàtaichean a dh’fhritheil na taighean-solais, agus na criuthaichean a sheòl iad tro na siantan – gaisgich gu leòr an sin cuideachd,  comhla ris na glèidheadairean-taigh-solais calma fhèin.

Fiù ‘s nach eil sibh uile nur luchd-leantainn taighean-solais mar a tha mise, tha mi cinnteach gur e sgrìob gu math tarraingeach a bhiodh ann do gach neach a bhuineas do choimhearsnachd na mara, gu sònraichte air a cho-cheangal ri tadhal air Taigh-solais a’ Chinn Àird.

Tha buth is cafaidh anns an taigh-tasgaidh, agus tha e fosgailte as t-samhradh gach latha 10m gu 5f.  Barrachd fiosrachaidh an seo: https://lighthousemuseum.org.uk/

Museum of Scottish Lighthouses

Last year I wrote about Kinnaird Head Lighthouse in Fraserburgh. https://www.seaboardgaidhlig.com/2023/11/06/2023-an-t-samhain-an-ceann-ard-nov-kinnaird-head/  Right beside it is the Museum of Scottish Lighthouses, and that’s open again now after its winter work and update, so I thought I’d tell you a bit about it this month. I can highly recommend a visit there too, along with a tour round Kinnaird Head Lighthouse itself.

The building is full of fascinating stuff connected to lighthouses and also to the history of Scottish lighthouses, especially the outstanding collection of the lights (“optics”) from the many lighthouses around the country that have now been modernised. Some are very large and tall, and you can get right up to them as you walk among them through the big exhibition hall. There are other lenses and lamps there too, large and small, with clear explanantions for each of them, e.g. you can see the Chanonry Point lighthouse optic there too.

The museum’s collections are spread over two levels, with the history of the lighthouses displayed and explained in the upstairs part. There you learn about the famous Stevenson dynasty of lighthouse-builders, but also about all the other engineers, lense-makers, and important builders who played a large part, and often a daring one, in the creation of the chain of lighthouses around the craggy coast of Scotland. They have equipment, charts, and models, tales of disaster and rescue, all bringing to life the fascinating story of these iconic structures. There’s something of interest for everyone, adults and children alike. I saw whole families captivated by the marvels on display. In the summer there are also extra activies for children.

There’s one very special item that you’ll see over the two levels – that’s the Sanda light from 1882; they had to make an opening between the two floors to display it, it’s so high. And on the ground floor there’s more about the boats that served the lighthouses and the crews who sailed them through the elements – plenty of heroes there too, along with the hardy keepers themselves.

Even if you’re not a lighthouse fan like me, I’m certain that this would be a great day out for anyone from a coastal community, especially when combined with a visit to the neighbouring Kinnaird Head Lighthouse. There’s  shop and a cafe too. Summer opening hours are daily 10am to 5pm. More information here:  https://lighthousemuseum.org.uk/

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Guest article by Anne Barclay of Golspie. Mòran taing, Anne!

A book and a film: East Sutherland Gaelic Heritage Night featured “Mar a Chunnaic Mise: Nancy Dorian is a’ Ghaidhlig “ – a documentary following linguist Nancy Dorian, who studied the last of the East Sutherland Gaelic speakers. What an interesting evening it turned out to be!

Aileen Ogilvie introduced Professor Neil Simco from the University of the Highlands and Islands, Dornoch Campus, who explained his own interest in the Gaelic language. He is an Englishman who studied Gaelic at Sabhal Mor Ostaig and is fluent in the language albeit with an English accent for which he apologised. He attained his fluency by using the Gaelic language at every opportunity. He told us how there is research going on at present into the crisis within the Gaelic language and the state of Gaelic in the Western Isles. At UHI, they try to make the student experience bilingual, corporate communication is also bilingual, and staff have the opportunity to learn Gaelic. Prof Simco switched easily from Gaelic to English right throughout.

Aileen Ogilvie, herself a Gaelic speaker, introduced the film which had been made some time ago, probably in the 1980’s, and featured Nancy Dorian, a Professor of Linguistics from the eastern seaboard of America who studied the last of the East Sutherland Gaelic speakers. East Sutherland Gaelic was spoken mainly in the fishing communities pf Brora, Golspie and Embo. Of the three villages only Embo was a totally fishing village. Brora’s fishing community was confined to Lower Brora beside the mouth of the river, while in Golspie it was the West End of the village. Gaelic was not spoken in the rest of Brora nor in the East End of Golspie. In the film we saw Nancy Dorian at work in her study in America, checking her pronunciation of Gaelic words over the telephone with the friends she had made in East Sutherland. She wanted to have the authentic East Sutherland accent and spelling of words and this she certainly achieved.

Her friendship with the last Gaelic speakers from East Sutherland lasted throughout their lives and the film is testament to the work she did over many years. Nancy Dorian also wrote a book called “The Tyranny of the Tide” where she documented the oral history of the fishing in East Sutherland, the stories of the people, the local fishing, the role of women in the family, religion, their beliefs and practices. This she wrote down largely in the words of the people she spoke to and lived among from time to time over many years.

There are numerous examples in the book where the stories are told by the people. One woman talking about her lack of education is quoted here. “I used to get rows Nancy, from the teachers….They thought I should be in school….my mother was very keen to send me when she could….sometimes she would keep my eldest brother off school but it was mostly me. Because I was handier in the house than a boy anyway.” When describing the decision of where to fish on any day, and she is talking about line fishing, it was supposed to be by common agreement, but the young men always deferred to the older men. “ If the older man says, ‘We’ll go here’ they never said yes or no, whether they thought otherwise or not…..they never mentioned it. They always gave “an t-urram do’n aois “(Honour to age).

Nancy Dorian had the ability to insert Gaelic words, still in use when she made her oral history recordings, to great effect throughout the book. “The Tyranny of the Tide” is a book I have read several times in the years I have spent in Golspie and I am always struck by the similarities there are to the Seaboard fishing villages. As in the Seaboard Gaelic has died out but words and phrases remain to remind us of our heritage.

This is a snatch of an old song that Nancy Dorian recorded from the Sutherland family she spent much time with in the 1970’s.

“S iomadh caileag bhoidheach

Eadar Dornach ’s a’ bhail’ seo

‘A do chuuir i treimh brog air

Bu bhoidhich’ na mo chaileagas. “

There’s many a bonny lass Between Dornoch and this village:

There didn’t step a foot (A girl) bonnier than my lass.

(Chaochail Nancy Dorian 24.04.24, aois 87, dìreach às dèidh foillseachadh an artaigil seo. Fìor bhana-ghaisgeach na Gàidhlig. Clach air a càrn. / Nancy Dorian died on 24.04.24, aged 87, just after the publication of this article. A true hero of Gaelic. May her memory live on.)

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Na h-uain a’s t-earrach, le Runrig

Seachdain sa chaidh bha mi aig Eden Court gus am fiolm The Last Dance fhaicinn, clàradh den chuirm-chiùil mu dheireadh a ghabh Runrig, ann an 2018 fo sgàil Caisteal Shruighlea. Tachartas làn faireachdainn a bh’ ann, leis gun robh fios againn uile mar-thà aig àm a’ chonsairt nach biodh iad a’ dèanamh turas eile no fiù’s cuirm-chiùil eile tuilleadh. Agus a-nis, a’ coimhead ‘s a’ cluinntinn a-rithist, thuig sinn gu h-obann is gu soilleir gun robh fios mar-thà aig an àm sin aig Bruce Guthro, prìomh sheinneadair den chòmhlan, fios nach robh againne idir, gun robh aillse air. Cha do sheall e sin, agus bha a ghuth cho brèagha ‘s cho làidir ’s a bha e riamh. Ach san eadar-àm chaochail e, ann an 2023, gun dùil againn ris, is call mòr a bha sin dhan choimearsnachd Riggie, gun ghuth air a theaghlach ‘s air a charaidean sa chòmhlan. Bha sinn uile a’ coimhead le sùilean is cluasan ùra, agus cha mhòr nach robh duine sam bith san taigh-dhealbh gun deur no dhà. Bha ar gaisgich bàsmhor.

Ach chan ann mar sin a chunnaic Ruairidh is Calum Dòmhnallach an saoghal ann an 1978, is iad dìreach air aon de na ciad òrain Ghàidhlig aca a sgrìobhadh – Na h-uain a’s t-earrach. Agus ‘s ann mun òran seo a tha mi airson bruidhinn am mìos seo. Bha an còmhlan dìreach a’ tòiseachadh ri bhith na b’ ainmeile, is a’ cleachdadh Gàidhlig na bu trice, rud nach robh cumanta airson chòmhlan-ciùil òga fhathast, agus a bha gu math connspaideach. Ach bha misneachd na h-òige aca, is iad a’ faireachdainn òg is làidir, deiseil is deònach an saoghal atharrachadh – agus taic a chumail ri Gàidhlig.

Dè math bhith suidhe fàs nas aosd
‘S làithean earraich a’ falbh bhuainn…

Chuir sinn ar cànan na’r chridhe.. ‘s le chèile togaidh sinn fonn.

Tha na sèistean làn iomraidhean air dè cho òg ‘s a tha iad (agus ‘s iad a bha!):

Òg tha sinn òg, òg na’r cridhe
Beatha na’r coinneamh, Coinneal na’r làimh
‘S ann againn tha neart, Is ann againn tha ‘n cothrom
Na’r cridhe gu bràth
Tha sinn òg, òg.

Agus a-nis tha na h-uain a’s t-earrach a’ nochdadh, agus an turas seo tha na Dòmhnallaich a’ gairm na Gàidheil òga eile – a’ cleachdadh “sibh” seach “sinn”:

Tha sibh mar na h-uain a’s t-earrach
Siubhal ‘s a leum, tapaidh, saor
Ach an fhaca sibh na caoraich aosd’
Nì aon dhiubh gluasad ‘s leanaidh ‘n corr.

Cha ann mu chaoraich a tha iad a bruidhinn.

Tha fios aca gum bi daoine a’ fàs sean, agus nach bi cùisean cho furasda an uair sin, ach sin dìreach carson a dh’fheumas na h-òganaich barrachd a dhèanamh cho fad ’s a bhios iad òg:

Nuair bhios na bliadhnaichean ‘dol bhuaibh
Làithean doirbh, làithean dorch’
Cùm do choinneal an àrd is laiste
‘S coisich an saoghal le cridhe òg.

Agus ‘s e sin a rinn Runrig, gun teagamh sam bith. Thug iad a’ Ghàidhlig ‘s an cultar Gàidhealach is Albannach thairis bhon niche folk gu rock, bhon talla-bhaile bheag gu lannan-cluiche mòra, leis an sgioba-ciùil teann is tàlantach a bh’ anns a’ chòmhlan. Chùm iad an coinneal ud an àrd fad an cùrsa-beatha, is bhrosnaich iad luchd-ciùil òg eile ar cànan ‘s ar cultar a thoirt air adhart ann an saoghal caochlaideach, ceòl ùr a chruthachadh leotha, agus pròiseactan ùra a stèidheachadh, mar iomairt nam Fèisean, no duaisean Na Trads, no tachartasan mar Bhlas.  Is iomadh seinneadair is còmhlan-ciùil cliùteach san latha an-diugh, mar Julie Fowlis, no Skipinnish, no Niteworks, a tha toilichte innse mar a bha Runrig na bhuaidh mhòr orra.

Thàinig Na h-uain a’s t-earrach a-mach air an album Highland Connection ann an 1979 agus bha e ri chluinntinn aig cuirmean-ciùil aig an àm sin. Seo an clàradh:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KdT9m5gBiY

Leis an ùine dh’atharraich e bho òran air a sheinn gu pìos ionnsramaideach drùidhteach airson giotàr is drumaichean, mar an seo beò ann an 2015:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ1h-YQgFzQ

‘S dòcha gun robh fios aca nach biodh “tha sinn òg, òg” cho freagarrach tuilleadh!

Ach 40 bliadhna air adhart on a sgrìobh iad an t-òran, bha an aon spiorad làidir, misneachail ri fhaicinn ‘s ri chluinntinn – is ri fhaireachdainn – aig a’ chuirm-chiùil mu dheireadh, àrd is soilleir. Thàinig na “làithean dorch’ “, gu dearbh, ach tha na coinnlean ud a’ lasadh fhathast, is na mìltean dhiubh. 

Agus tha sinn an dùil ‘s an dòchas gum bi na h-uain agus an t-earrach againn a-rithist cuideachd a dh’aithghearr!

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The lambs in springtime, by Runrig

Last week I went to Eden Court to see the film The Last Dance, a recording of Runrig’s last concert in the shadow of Stirling Castle in 2018. It was an emotional event, as we all knew already at the time of the concert that Runrig wouldn’t be doing another tour or even a concert any more. And now, watching and listening again, we suddenly and clearly were aware that the lead singer, Bruce Guthro, unlike us already knew at that time that he had cancer. He didn’t show it – his voice was as beautiful and powerful as ever. But he died in 2023, unexpectedly for us, a huge loss to the Riggie community, not to mention to his family and his bandmates. So we were all watching the film with new eyes and ears, and there was hardly anyone in the cinema who didn’t shed a tear or two. Our heroes were mortal.

But that’s not how Rory and Calum Macdonald saw the world back in 1978, when they wrote one of their first Gaelic songs – Na h-uain a’s t-earrach, The lambs in springtime. And that’s the song I’m going to look at this month. The band were just beginning to be better known, and singing in Gaelic more often, something that wasn’t common at the time for young bands, and was quite controversial. But they had the confidence of youth and felt young and strong, ready and keen to change the world – and to support Gaelic.

What’s the point in sitting, growing older

The days of springtime disappearing from us

We put our language in our hearts

We found a song and sung it

The chorus is full of references to how young they are (and they were!)

Young, we are young, young in our hearts

Life ahead of us, a candle in our hands

We have the enthusiasm, we have the opportunity

In your attitude forever stay young, stay young

And now the young lambs of spring of the title appear, and this time the Macdonalds are summoning other young Gaels to the standard – using “you” instead of “we”.

You are like the lambs in springtime

Running around, jumping and carefree

But have you ever noticed the older sheep

When one moves they all follow

It’s not sheep they’re talking about.

They know of course that people grow old, that things won’t be so easy then, but that’s precisely why young people have to do more as long as they are young:

And when the years start departing from you

The difficult days, the darker days

Keep your candle aloft and lit

Walk this world with a young heart

And that’s what Runrig did, no doubt about it. They kept that candle aloft throughout their musical career, and inspired other young musicians to carry our language and culture forward in a changing world, creating new music with them, and founding new projects like the Fèisean, the Na Trads awards, or the Blas Festival events. And there are countless celebrated singers and bands today, like Julie Fowlis, Skipinnish, or Niteworks, who are happy to tell us what a major influence Runrig has had on them.

The song Na h-uain a’s t-earrach / Lambs in springtime came out on the album Highland Connection in 1979, and was played at concerts then – here’s  the recording: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KdT9m5gBiY

In the course of time it changed from a vocal to an impressive instrumental piece for guitar and drums, as heard here live in 2015: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQ1h-YQgFzQ

They probably realised that singing “we’re young, young” wasn’t quite so appropriate by that point!

But 40 years on from when they wrote the song, the same strong, confident spirit could be seen and heard – and felt – at that last concert, loud and clear.  The “darker days” did indeed come, but those candles are still burning bright, and in their thousands.

And we live in hope that the the lambs and the spring will be back with us again soon too!

Original lyrics and translation here: https://runrig.rocks/lyrics/the%20highland%20connection.html  

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Druidean

Tha beachdan nan daoine gu math measgaichte a thaobh dhruidean. Gun teagamh sam bith tha iad dìreach àlainn mar eòin, agus na “murmurations” aca iongantach, ach faodaidh iad a bhith nam burraidhean cuideachd, a’ putadh nan eun beaga air falbh bho na biathadairean agus a’ glamhadh sios a h-uile rud dhaibh fhèin.

Chan fhaca mi nam ghàrradh iad fad mìos no dhà (am faca sibhse?), is mi a’ gabhail iongnadh an e eòin-imrich a bhiodh annta. Chuir mi roham barrachd fhaighinn a-mach mun deidhinn agus rannsaich mi sna leabhraichean-eòin agam agus air làraichean-lìn nàdair. An toiseach, cha bhi iad a’ falbh idir – ‘s ann fiù ‘s gum bi mòran druidean ag imrich bhon Roinn Eòrpa a Bhreatainn sa gheamhradh, ag àrdachadh an uimhir air spiris. Mar sin faodaidh gur e co-thuiteamas a th’ ann nach robh iad agamsa, no ‘s dòcha gum bi badan eile aca san sgìre, nas fhreagarraiche a thaobh bidh no cothroman-cruinneachaidh. Co-dhiù, ‘s urrainn do mo ghealbhonnan ‘s mo chailleachagan ithe air an socair.

Bidh na druidean a’ neadachadh as t-earrach ann an tuill ann an seann chraobhan, togalaichean no creagan. Tòisichidh am fireannach ri an nead a thogail, an uair sin tarraingidh e boireannach leis a sheinn tlachdmhor, agus cuiridh ise crìoch air. Beiridh i 4 – 5 uighean gorma a nochdas às dèidh mu dà sheachdain. Gu tric beiridh i dà thuras sa bhliadhna, sa Ghiblean agus san Iuchar, agus bidh an dithis aca a gabhail cùram de na h-iseanan agus gan beathachadh. Nuair a dh’fhàgas iad an nead thèid an teaghlach a chadal air spiris, còmhla ris na colanaidhean aca, air craobhan no mullaichean no creagan. Ruigidh iad mu chòig bliadhna deug a dh’aois.

Tha caochladh òrain aca, bho sheinn bhinn gu sgiamhail ghrannta, agus tha iad math air atharrais de dh’eòin eile no fiù ‘s fuaimean teicneagach. Abair racaid nuair a bhios iad nan suidhe sna craobhan nan ceudan!

Fhad’s a bhios iad òg, bidh na h-iseanan donn doilleir ach aithnichidh thu an cruth druid suaicheanta (agus an giùlan!) mar aig na pàrantan. Tha ceann gu math fada aca le bathais ìosal a’ dol dìreach chun a’ ghuib, a thòisicheas faisg air an t-sùil, rud a bheir coltas caran  buaireanta dhaibh. Mar a dh’fhàsas iad, gheibh iad na breacan agus an dath-lainnreachadh a tha aig na h-inbhich, gu -àraidh aig na fireannaich. Sa gheamhradh fàsaidh iad nas dorcha a-rithist, ach bidh na breacan bàna fiù’s nas fhasa rim faicinn.

Tha iad math air biadh a lorg, is iad ag ithe cha mhòr a h-uile rud, ach tha iad sònraichte measail air meanbh-fhridean, larbhachan is boiteagan nuair a bhios iseanan aca, agus air measan àm sam bith. Fhad ‘s a tha iad a lorg bidh, tha iad a’ coimhead air adhart no sìos, ach ‘s urrainn dhaibh cuideachd an sùilean a chùl-sleamhnachadh gus dèanamh cinnteach nach bi bagairt a’ feitheamh air an cùlaibh!

Tha na druidean uabhasach deidheil air cuideachd agus mar as àbhaist nochdaidh iad ann am bagaidean, tartail is èasgaidh. Faodaidh na buidhnean a bhith gu math mòr, agus ‘s urrainn dhaibh biathadairean-eòin fhalmhachadh gu luath, a’ putadh na h-eòin nas lugha a-mach às an rathad. Mhothaich mi gun ionnsaich na h-iseanan an giùlan seo glè thràth.  A rèir coltais chan ann air sgàth ‘s gu bheil iad sanntach a nì iad seo, ach air sgàth ‘s gun do leasaich iad gus ithe gu luath is ann an sgaothan, air adhbharan-dìon. Bidh iad a’ cruinneachadh cuideachd ann an sgaothan glè mhòr air craobhan no mullachan airson cadal gach oidhche.

Agus le sin feumaidh sinn sùil a thoirt air aon de na rudan as iongantaiche mu dhruidean – na “murmurations” – sgaothan sònraichte mòra. Sa gheamhradh bith sgaothan de na h-eòin sòisealta seo a’ cruinneachadh ann am beul na h-oidhche nan ceudan no nam mìltean mòra, a’ gluasad ‘s a’ tionndadh ‘s a’ dannsadh san adhair mar aon eun aibhseach, ann an cumaidhean sruthach a’ sìor-atharrachadh gu bras. Mar as àbhaist cha mhair seo ach mionaidean, agus gu h-obann teàrnaidh iad agus laighidh iad, fhathast mar aon, air an àite-spiris – ann an runnaichean, coilltean, no creagan. Abair sealladh drùidhteach! A rèir coltais s’ e seo cuideachd ro-ionnleachd-dìon – tha e doirbh do dh’eun-creachaidh aon druid a chomharrachadh airson ionnsaigh, agus nuair a bhios iad nan laighe, ‘s e sluagh teann, dùmhail a th’ annta air raon ach aon sealgair-oidhche (leithid comhachag), agus mar sin cha bhi iad a’ call na h-uimhir de dh’eòin. Bha mi fortanach murmuration mòr fhaicinn dà thuras, ach anns a’ Ghalltachd agus san Fhraing, chan ann an seo.  Am faca sibhse a leithid san sgìre?

Tha aon bhaile ann far a bheil àireamh nan druidean cho mòr (na milleanan!) ‘s gun abhraich am buachar aca trioblaidean uabhasach gach oidhce – an Ròimh.  Thoir sùil air a’ bhideo seo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVko9jyAkQg  Ten Million Starlings Swarm (7 Tonnes of Bird Poo) | Superswarm | BBC Earth BBC Earth

Agus rud inntinneach eile mun deidhinn – bha druid aig Mozart mar pheata-gràidh, a dh’ionnsaicheadh criomagan a chiùil. Fhuair an druid fiù ‘s tiodhlacadh sa ghàrradh, agus sgrìobh Mozart pìos bàrdachd air a’ chlach-chinn!

Ach chan fhaod sinn an cuspair tarraingeach seo fhàgail gun iomradh air a’ CD Murmurations le còmhlan-ciùil The Shee, is Olivia Ross chòir againn fhìn na ball – ‘s urrainn dhuibh pìos a chluinntinn an seo:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlCeAFnuHDs  The Shee: Starlings

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Starlings

The starling is one of the birds people have mixed feelings about. On the one hand they’re beautiful to look at, and their murmurations are astonishing, on the other hand they’re often seen as bullies, gangs of them shoving the wee birds off the feeders, and gobbling down everything themselves.

I haven’t seen them in my garden for a couple of months (have you?), and wondered if they actually migrate. I decided to find out a bit more about them, so consulted my bird books and the various nature websites. First of all, they don’t normally migrate – in fact many European starlings migrate to Britain for the winter, increasing the roosting numbers. So it may be coincidence that I haven’t had any, or they just favour somewhere else in the area at this time of year, perhaps for better feeding or congregating. My sparrows and bluetits can feed in peace.

They nest in holes in old trees, or cavities in buildings or cliffs, in spring. The male starts the building, sings to attract a female, and she finishes it. She lays 4 – 5 blue eggs, which hatch about 2 weeks later. She often lays eggs twice a year, around April and June, and both parents look after and feed the fledglings. Later they all roost at night on trees or buildings or cliffs, or in reedbeds, in their local colonies. Starlings live for about 15 years.

They have a wide range of song, from musical to raucous, and they are excellent mimics and and copy other birds or technical and mechanical sounds they hear. They make quite a racket when they’re perching in trees in large numbers!

When they’re young, the birds are initially a dull brown, but have the distinctive shape (and behaviour) of their parents. Starlings have a long flattish head ending in a long beak that seems to start at the eye, giving it a pugnacious look. As they mature, they develop the speckles and brilliant iridescence of the adults, especially the male. In winter they go darker again, but the pale speckles are even easier to see.

They’re good foragers, eating most things, but especially fond of insects, larvae and worms when they have young, and fruit at any time. While foraging, they look ahead or down, but can also swivel their eyes backwards to check for threats!

Starlings like company, and tend to appear in groups, noisy and active. The groups can be quite large, and they can empty bird feeders in record time, pushing the smaller birds out of the way.  I’ve noticed that young starlings learn this behaviour early! Apparently this isn’t because they’re greedy, though, but because they evolved to feed quickly in flocks, for safety. They also settle in large flocks on trees or buildings to sleep in the evening.

Which brings us to one of the most amazing things about starlings – their murmurations. In winter dusks, flocks of these gregarious birds will gather together in their hundreds or many thousands and perform aerial aerobatics like one vast bird, forming and reforming amazing shapes at great speed for several minutes, before dropping as one to the roosting area – reedbeds, woods, or cliffs. This is a truly impressive spectacle. Apparently this too is a safety precaution – it’s harder for predators to pick out single birds to attack, and once landed, they will be concentrated on the territory of just one night predators (like owls), so are less likely to lose many birds. I’ve been lucky enough to see a couple of murmurations, in England and France, but not locally. Have you seen any?

One city where the murmurations are so huge (millions) that their tons of droppings every night cause a massive problem is Rome – have a look at this video on Youtube:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVko9jyAkQg  Ten Million Starlings Swarm (7 Tonnes of Bird Poo) | Superswarm | BBC Earth BBC Earth

And another interesting fact: Mozart had a pet starling that he loved, and which learned snippets of his music. He even gave it a funeral in his garden when it finally died – and wrote a poem for its gravestone!

But we can’t leave the fascinating subject of starlings without a mention of the CD Murmurations by the band The Shee, featuring our own Olivia Ross – here you can listen to a piece from it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlCeAFnuHDs  The Shee: Starlings

Milseag-arain le dearcan-coille is liomaid

Seo reasabaidh eile bhon charaid agam, Molly MacRae, le taing! ‘S e milseag a’ gheamraidh a th’ ann, ach le blas is fàileadh an t-samhraidh – math airson làithean gruamach a shoilleireachadh. Faodaidh tu ar dearcan-coille Albannach a chleachdadh, ma bhios poca agad sa reòthadair, no na fraochagan Ameireaganach a chì thu nam bùithtean. Agus tha cha mòr gach seòrsa arain freagarrach – chleachd Molly aran geal agus pìosan lof rois-Moire, agus chleachd mise taois-geur is aran le raosaran. Fìor bhlasta, an dà chuid!

Tha an reasabaidh a’ cleachdadh cupannan Ameireaganach, ach bhiodh muga beag ceart gu leòr cuideachd, no 250 gr/ml gach cupa. B’ fhearr dhut saoitheach-àmhainne leathann eu-domhain (mu 8”x8”x2”) a chleachdadh, gus a’ chuid as motha de mhullach cruasbach fhaighinn.

Tàthchuidean

¾ cupa dearcan-coille

4 – 6 pìosan lofa (seann, no air an tòstadh gu goirid), gu leòr airson dà fhilleadh san t-soitheach-àmhainne.

2 cupa bainne (seòrsa sam bith)

½ cupa siùcair dhuinn

1 spàin-tì extract faoineige

1 spàin-tì extract liomaid (nas làidire na sùgh, gun a bhith cho geur)

rùsg-liomaid sgrìobte

2 ugh mhòr

ìm – gu leòr airson nam pìosan-lofa

Ro-theasaich an àmhainn gu 350°F / 175°C.

Stiùireadh

Smeur an t-soitheach le beagan ìm agus cuir an darna leth den aran, taobh le ìm suas, ann. Sgoil an dàrna leth de na dearcan-coille air an aran. Cuir an dàrna filleadh den aran gu rèidh air feadh na dearcan agus cuir an còrr de na dearcan air a’ mhullach.

Teasaich am bainne leis an t-siùcar gu faiceallach gus an èirich beagan smùid. Cuir ris an fhaoineag is an extract liomaid.

Buail na h-uighean ann am bobhla, agus beag air bheag cuir am bainne blàth mun chuairt annta.  Dòirt am measgachadh-uighe air an arain san t-soitheach.  Sgaoil an rùsg-liomaid air a’ mhullach.

Bruich san àmhainn i gun chòmhdach 25 – 30 mionaidean, neo gus an tòisich am mullach ri fàs donn, agus an tèid sgìan glan a-mach às a’ mheadhan.

Ìth a’ mhilseag blàth no fuar, dìreach mar a tha e, no le uachdar, iogart, reòiteag no ughagan.

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Blueberry Lemon Bread Pudding

Here’s another recipe from my friend Molly MacRae – many thanks to her! It’s a winter pudding, but with the taste and smell of summer – good for brightening up gloomy days! You can use our Scottish blaeberries, if you have a bag in the freezer, or the American blueberries you see in the shops. And virtually every kind of bread is suitable – Molly used white bread and slices of rosemary loaf, and I used sourdough and currant loaf. Both absolutely delicious!

The recipe uses American cup measures, but a small mug would do, or use 240 ml to a cup. You’re best to use a wide, fairly shallow baking dish (around 8”x8”x2”), to get the maximum crunchy topping.

Ingredients

3/4 c. blueberries (fresh or frozen)

4-6 slices old bread or leftover rolls or buns sliced horizontally into ½ -inch-thick pieces (enough bread to make 2 layers in an 8” x 8” x 2” baking dish)

2 cup milk (dry nonfat, 2%, whole, or half-and-half – however indulgent you feel)

½ cup brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon lemon extract (not juice)

grated zest of 1 lemon

2 large eggs

Butter – enough to spread on one side of each piece of bread (2-3 tablespoons)

Directions

Preheat oven to 350º F.

Fit half the bread, buttered side up, into a greased baking dish. Sprinkle half the blueberries over the bread. Fit the rest of the bread, buttered side up, over the blueberries. Sprinkle the remaining blueberries over all.

Heat the milk and sugar just until steaming. Stir in vanilla and lemon extract.

Beat the eggs in a bowl, then gradually stir the warm milk into the bowl. Pour egg mixture over bread.

Bake, uncovered, 25-30 minutes, or until the top is beginning to brown and a knife inserted near the center comes out clean.

Serve warm, cold, or reheated, with or without custard sauce or ice cream, or yoghurt.

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An Ceann Àrd – Kinnaird Head

O chionn greis mhath sgrìobh mi an seo mu Thaigh-solais Rubha an Tairbeirt agus na “Lighthouse Stevensons” (https://www.seaboardgaidhlig.com/2015/04/04/2015-an-giblean-rubha-an-tairbeirt-apr-tarbat-ness/) agus am bliadhna fhèin mu Grace Darling agus Taigh-solais Longstone (https://www.seaboardgaidhlig.com/2023/08/30/2023-an-t-sultain-sept-grace-darling/). Chithear gu bheil mi gu math measail air taighean-solais!  Mar sin bidh mi a’ dol air adhart leis a’ chuspair le bhith a’ sgrìobhadh a-nis mu Thaigh-solais a’ Chinn Àird, ann am Baile nam Frisealach, far an robh mi a’ chiad turas san Ògmhios, agus ‘s e togalach fìor dhrùidhteach a th’ ann.

Tha an taigh-solais seo sònraichte ann an iomadh dòigh. An toiseach, ‘s e seo a’ chiad taigh-solais a thog Bòrd Thaighean-solais a’ Chinn a Tuath, ann an 1787, dìreach aon bhliadhna às dèidh a stèidheachaidh. Aig an àm sin chan e ach lanntair a bh’ ann air tùr seann chaisteil air a’ chreig– Caisteal a’ Chinn Àird às an t-siathamh linn deug. Ach ann an 1822-23 chaidh taigh-solais gu tur ùr a thogail, tro theis-meadhan a’ chaisteil, le prìomh-einnseanair a’ Bhùird, Robert Stevenson, is esan a’ chiad einnseanair-taigh-solais san teaghlach ainmeil sin. (Sin an dearbh Stevenson a thog taigh-solais a’ Bell Rock, agus a dhealbhaich Rubha an Tairbeirt.) Mas fhìor, bha Robert airson an caisteal a leagail roimhe, ach chuir a charaid Sir Walter Scott ìmpidh air am plan seo atharrachadh. Mar sin, ‘s e an aon taigh-solais san t-saoghal a th’ air a thogail tro chaisteal!

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Faodar tadhal air an taigh-solais còmhla ri neach-iùil snog is eòlach às an taigh-tasgaidh ri thaobh, agus tha e tarraingeach faicinn mar a bha beatha an luchd-taigh-sholais – chan eil an togalach ga chleachdadh tuilleadh a-nis (tha solas ùr fèin-obrachail ann san tùr bheag ri thaobh o chionn 1991), agus mar sin tha na seòmraichean is an àrneis air am fàgail mar a bha iad roimhe. Sa bhun-ùrlar chì thu fhathast na tancaichean-ola mòra, agus na canaichean uaine anns an do ghiùlain iad am paireafain suas an staidhre fhada shnìomhanach – bha lampa-paireafain aca gus an d’ fhuair iad lampa-dealain ann an 1975. Air ùrlaran eile chì thu an stòbha, an seann telebhisein, an leabaidh chumhang, leabhraichean is geamaichean, cairtean is uidheam an obrach, gus am bi thu fìor àrd, faisg air an t-solas fhèin leis an uidheam-uaireadair is an acfhainn ceangailte ris – a h-uile rud ag obrachadh fhathast, blàthachadh mìorbhaileach de ghlainne is chopar. Faodaidh tu fiù ‘s feuchainn ri bun an lampa trom a thionndadh le làmhrachan mòr. (Spòrs gu leòr do chloinn!) Tha ullag làidir le slabhraidhean fada, cuibhlichean-ullaig is cuideaman a’ crochadh bhon uidheam-uaireadair dìreach sìos tro mheadhan na staidhre cearcallaich domhain gu bun-ùrlar an taighe-sholais.

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Bhon ùrlar as àirde sin faodaidh tu dol a-mach dhan ùrlar-amhairc timcheall air an tùr, le rèile làidir.  Tha deagh shealladh ri fhaighinn bhon nead àrd sin, thairis air Baile nam Frisealach fhèin, ach cuideachd fada a-mach air a’ chuan. B’ urrainn dhuinn bataichean-iasgaich, longan cuairte-mara agus soithichean-bhogsaichean-luchd fhaicinn – ‘s e latha brèagha soilleir a bha againn. Agus tha fios agad gum bi na saoithichean sin toilichte cuideachd solas a’ Chinn Àird fhaicinn air an oidhche bho mhòran mhìltean a-mach air a’ mhuir.

Tha Taigh-tasgaidh nan Taighean-solais Albannach dìreach dà mhionaid air falbh, agus tha sin tarraingeach cuideachd (ach dùinte sa gheamhradh seo) – ach sgrìobhaidh mi ma dheidhinn-sa turas eile! San eadar-àm faodaidh mi tadhal air Taigh-solais a’ Chinn Àird fhèin a mholadh – fosgailte Diciadain gu Didòmhnaich sa gheamhradh airson tursan. Barrachd fiosrachaidh an seo: https://www.facebook.com/LighthouseMus/  agus https://lighthousemuseum.org.uk/kinnaird-head-lighthouse/

Kinnaird Head

A good while ago I wrote here about Tarbat Ness Lighthouse and the “Lighthouse Stevensens” (April 2015), and more recently (Sept 2023) about Grace Darling and the Longstone Lighthouse. You can see I’m fond of lighthouses! So now I’m continuing with the theme and writing about the Kinnaird Head Lighthouse in Fraserburgh, which I visited for the first time in June – and it’s an impressive building.

This lighthouse is special in various ways. To start with, it’s the first lighthouse built by the Northern Lighthouse Board, in 1787, just one year after its establishment. At that time it was only a lantern built on a tower on an old castle on the cliff – Kinnaird Castle from the 16th century. But in 1822-23 a completely new lighthouse was built, right through the middle of the castle, by the Board’s Chief Engineer, Robert Stevenson, the first lighthouse-engineer of the famous dynasty. (That’s the same Stevenson who built the Bell Rock Lighthouse, and who designed our own Tarbat Ness.) Robert allegedly wanted to demolish the castle first, but was persuaded to change his plans by his friend Sir Walter Scott. Thus it became the only lighthouse in the world to be built right through a castle!

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You can visit the lighthouse on a tour led by a friendly and knowledgeable guide from the neighbouring museum, and it’s fascinating to see the keepers’ way of life in the old days of manned lighthouses. The lighthouse is no longer in use (in 1991 a new automatic light was installed on a smaller tower close by), so the rooms and furniture have been been left as they were. On the ground floor you can see the big oil-tanks and the green cans they used to carry paraffin up the long winding staircase – it was a paraffin lamp they had until an electric one was installed in 1975. On other floors you can see the stove, the old TV, the narrow bed, books, games, and charts and equipment for their work, until you get up really high, beside the light itself with its clockwork and associated machinery – everything still in working order, a marvellous flowering of glass and copper. You can even try to turn the heavy lamp-base with a big handle. (Fun for any kids!) There’s a hefty pulley with long chains, wheels and weights hanging from the clockwork machine straight down through the middle of the deep circular stairwell to the ground floor of the lighthouse.

From the top floor you can go out onto the viewing platform round the tower with its stout railing. There’s a great view from that high nest, over Fraserburgh itself but also far out on the ocean. We could see fishing boats, cruise liners and container ships – it was a beautiful clear day. And you know too that these vessels will also be glad to see the Kinnaird Head light during the night from many miles out to sea.

The Museum of Scottish Lighthouses is also just two minutes away, and that’s fascinating too (but closed this winter) – but I’ll write about that another time. Meanwhile I can highly recommend a visit to the Kinnaird Head Lighthouse itself, open for tours Wed – Sun in winter. More information here: https://www.facebook.com/LighthouseMus/  agus https://lighthousemuseum.org.uk/kinnaird-head-lighthouse/

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Am Foghar

Nuair a tha mi a’ sgrìobhadh seo, tha am foghar dìreach air tighinn, leis na h-àireamhan a’ dol sios air an teas-mheidh is air na mapaichean-sìde air an tbh. Bha làithean brèagha grianach againn fhathast san t-Sultain, ach faodaidh sinn beannachd fhàgail aig tuinn-theasa an t-samhraidh. Ach chan eil mi toilichte idir bathar Oidhche Shamhna fhaicinn sna bùithtean o chionn toiseach na Sultaine, gun guth air stuth na Nollaige a tha a’ tòiseachadh ri nochdadh mar-thà. Bidh cuibhle nan ràithean a’ tionndadh luath gu leor mar-thà!

Tha mòran daoine ann a-nis air a bheil fadachd gus an till an t-Earrach, no àm na Nollaige co-dhiù, ach ‘s toil leamsa am foghar agus tha am blas sònraichte den àm seo den bhliadhna a’ còrdadh rium gu mòr. Ged a tha na cuaranan air ais sa phreas, bidh na brògan-coiseachd a’ tighinn a-mach. Tha e math a bhith taobh a-muigh air an dùthaich no air an traigh, no a’ dràibheadh air feadh na  Gàidhealtachd a-rithist gun dragh a bhith oirnn a thaobh cus luchd-turais no trafaig air an t-slighe no anns na h-àiteachean as fheàrr leinn.

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‘S e dathan nan craobhan a dh’ainmicheadh a’ mhòr-chuid mar phrìomh chomharra an Fhoghair, agus tha an t-atharrachadh sin air tòiseachadh mar-thà, beag air bheag. Gus an tig deireadh na Dàmhair agus a-steach dhan t-Samhain, ‘s urrainn dhuinn coiseachd tro dhuilleagan ruadh òir a tha air tuiteam – faireachdainn is fuaim shònraichte a chòrdas ri gu leòr dhinn.

Tha fios aig na h-eòin is na beathaichean cuideachd gu bheil na ràithean ag atharrachadh, agus chì sinn geòidh agus ealachan air an sgèìth, cuid a’ tighinn, cuid a’ falbh. Seo cuideachd àm dàmhair nam fiadh – sin freumh ainm a’ mhìosa. Beiridh na ròin an cuileanan bàna, agus bidh na bradan ri cladh shuas nan grunndan-cladha às dèidh an strì ghaisgich air an t-slighe air ais bhon Chuan Siar.

Bidh buain ann do dhaoine is do bheathaichean: measan liosa, an gràn mu dheireadh ‘s am buntàta dhuinne, agus dearcan is cnòthan do dh’eòin, do fheòragan ‘s do luchan. Agus bidh an storas anns na biathadairean-eun againn a’ dol sìos fada nas luaithe!

Faodaidh na h-oidhcheannan a bhith a’ fàs nas fhaide, ach nuair a tha ùine againn ‘s an t-sìde math, tha e dìreach àlainn a bhith a-muigh fo ghrian an fhoghair, a’ cur sùim ann an dathan nan craobhan ‘s nan dearcan ‘s nam flùraichean fadalach, agus a’ coimhead air na h-eòin sna speuran ‘s na tuathanaich trang sna h-achaidhean. Cha bu chòir dhuinn idir a bhith a’ gearan mun fhoghar – gabhamaid dìreach tlachd air!

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Autumn

At the time of writing autumn has just arrived, with the numbers going down on the thermometer and the TV weather charts. We’ve still had some fine sunny days in September, but we can say goodbye to the heatwaves of the summer. But I’m not at all delighted by the sight of Halloween items in the shops since the start of September, let alone the Christmas goods that are now appearing. The wheel of the seasons turns fast enough as it is!

There are plenty of people who now can’t wait till spring comes back, or at least Christmas, but I like the autumn, and really enjoy the special flavour of this time of year. Although the sandals are going back in the cupboard, the walking shoes are coming out. It’s great to be outside in the country or on the shore, or driving around the Highlands without having to worry about too many tourists or too much traffic on the roads or in our favourite places.

The colour of the trees is what most people would mention as the main sign of autumn, and that change has already begun, little by little. By the end of October and into November, we’ll be able to walk through the red gold of fallen leaves – a feeling and a sound that plenty of us enjoy.

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The birds and the animals also know that the seasons are changing, and we can see the skeins of geese and swans on the wing, some arriving, some leaving.  This is also the time of the rutting of the stags – that’s the origin of An Dàmhair, the Gaelic name for October – “dàmhair” means rutting. The seals are giving birth to their white seal-pups, and the salmon up in their spawning grounds are laying their eggs, after their heroic struggle all the way back from the Atlantic.

There’s harvest too for humans and animals: orchard fruits and the last of the grain crops and the taties for us, and berries and nuts for the birds, the squirrels and the mice. And our stocks in the bird-feeders are going down much faster!

The nights may be getting longer, but if we have time and the weather’s good, it’s just lovely to be outside in the autumn sun, appreciating the colours of the trees, the berries and the late flowers, watching the birds in the sky and the farmers busy in the fields. We shouldn’t be complaining about autumn at all – let’s just enjoy it!

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Bana-ghaisgeach nan cuantan, Grace Darling

O chionn 185 bliadhna air an 7 latha den t-Sultain shàbhail Grace Darling agus a h-athair naoinear às an long-bhriste HMS Forfarshire. Mar bhana-ghaisgeach na mara tha e iomchaidh gum bi cuimhne againn oirre nar coimhearsnachd chladaich air an ceann-là seo.

Rugadh Grace ann an 1815 ann an Northumberland, mar nighean neach-taigh-sholais, agus ann an 1838 bha Grace a’ fuireach còmla ris agus a màthair anns an taigh-solais Eilean Longstone, air fear de na h-Eileanan Farne. Bha Grace 22 aig an àm sin agus a’ cuideachadh le obair an taighe agus an taigh-sholais, nam measg le cumail faire.

Sna h-uairean tràtha den 7 den t-Sultain, a bha gu sònraichte stoirmeil, chunnaic Grace briseadh-luing eagalach bho uinneag an t-seòmair-chadail aice – bhuail bàta-smùide eilean ìosal creagach, Big Harcar Rock, mu mhìle air falbh, agus bhris na dhà leth. Thachair sin mu 4 uairean sa mhadainn. Ruith i dhan phrosbaig feuch am faiceadh i duine beò sam bith, ach bha e fathast ro dhorcha, ach an ceann ùine dh’aithnich iad daoine air a chreig.  Cho-dhùin Mgr Darling agus Grace gun iomraicheadh iad an sin, a dh’aindeoin staid uabhasach na sìde ‘s na mara, gus feuchainn ri na truaghanan a shàbhaladh. Bha fios aca gum biodh sin na bu luaithe na feitheamh air a’ bhàta-teasairginn à Seahouses (e fhèin bàta-ràmh), nach toisicheadh idir, ‘s dòcha, leis an t-sìde ‘s an astar na bu mhotha.

Às dèidh saothrach anabarraich, chaidh aca air an copal aca a stiùreadh dhan àite, far an deach Mgr Darling suas air a’ chreig a’ fàgail Grace na h-aonar a’ cumail am bàta faisg air làimh sa mhuir fhiadhaich ‘s san stoirm fheargach. Lorg iad naoinear luchd-teasairginn, cus rim toirt dhan taigh-sholais ann an aon bhaidse. Dh’iomair iad a’ chiad fheadhainn air ais – boireannach, fear air a ghoirteachadh, agus triùir den chriutha, agus an uair sin dh’iomair Mgr Darling agus an criutha air ais airson chàich. Dh’fhuirich Grace san taigh-sholais gus coimheadh às dèidh an fhir lèonta agus a’ bhoireannaich, a chaill dithis cloinne san tubaist. Ro 9 uair sa mhadainn bha a h-uile naoinear sàbhailte ann an Longstone.

Bha an HMS Forfarshire air an t-slighe bho Hull gu Dùn Dèagh le 62 daoine air bòrd. Bha na goileadairean air am fàilneachadh agus mar sin bha an t-einnsean gun fheum, agus cha robh aig a’ chaiptean ach nàdar de sheòl ri chleachdadh san stoirm. Shaoil e am mearachd gur e taigh-solais Inner Farne a bh’ anns an Longstone agus dhrioft am bàta-smùide air an eilean chreagach neo-fhaicsinneach. Bhrìs an long na dà leth, agus ron ghlasadh an latha cha mhòr nach robh e air a dhol fodha.  Chaidh aig naoinear eile air teicheadh anns a’ bhata-teasairginn aig an long fhèin agus chaidh an sàbhaladh le long eile san dol seachad. Chaidh na cuirp-chloinne a lorg cuideachd leis a’ bhàta-teasairginn à Seahouses (is bràthair Grace air aon de na ràimh). B’ feudar dhan bhàta sin cuideachd feitheamh fad 3 làithean aig taigh-solais Longstone air sgàth na sìde.

Nuair a nochd an naidheachd, chaidh Grace na bana-ghaisgeach chliùiteach air feadh na dùthcha. Fhuair i urraman, duaisean (nam measg £50 bho Bhanrìgh Bhictoria!), agus fiù ‘s tairgsean-pòsaidh. Chaidh bàrdachd is òrain a sgrìobhadh mu a deidhinn agus chaidh iomadh portraid a pheantadh. Gu mi-fhortamach ge-tà, cha robh mòran ùine air fhagail dhi gus tlachd a ghabhail na cliù (ma ghabh idir) – chaochail i leis a’ chaitheamh dìreach 4 bliadhna às dèidh sin. Thàinig na ceudan dhan tiodhlacadh ann am Bamburgh, far a bheil carragh-chuimhne brèagha san chladh aig eaglais eachdraidheil Naomh Aodhan, agus tha an iomhaigh-chloiche shnaithte àlainn a bha air an tuama aice air a gleidheadh am broinn na h-eaglais. Bha cothrom agam tadhal orra nuair a bha mi ann an Northumberland an-uiridh.  Tha taigh-tasgaidh RNLI Grace Darling ann am Bamburgh cuideachd. https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/museums/grace-darling-in-10-objects

Tha bana-ghaisgeach iomraidh againne ann am Machair Rois cuideachd – Oighrig an Dà Raimh; cuimhnichean, còmhla ri dìleab shònraichte Grace, gun do chluich na boireannaich cuideachd riamh am pàirt ann am dràma nan cuantan.

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Maritime heroine, Grace Darling

On 7  September it will be 185 years since Grace Darling and her father saved the lives of nine souls from the wrecked HMS Forfarshire. As a maritime heroine, it’s fitting for our coastal community to remember her on this anniversary.

Grace was born in 1815 in Northumberland, daughter of a lighthouse-keeper, and in 1899 Grace and her mother were living with him in Longstone Island lighthouse, one on of the Farne Islands. Grace was 22 then, and helping with household and lighthouse duties, including taking turns at watch.

In the exceptionally stormy night to 7 September Grace saw from her bedroom window a terrible wreck happening – a steamship hit a low rocky island, Big Harcar Rock, about a mile away, and broke in two. This happened about 4am. She ran to the lighthouse telescope to see if she could spot survivors but it was still too dark, but eventually they could make out some people on the rock. Mr Darling and Grace decided to row there, despite the dreadful conditions, and try to rescue them – they knew that would be quicker than waiting for the lifeboat (also a rowing boat) from more distant Seahouses, which might not even have launched due to the weather conditions and distance.

With immense effort, the two of them managed to get their coble to the scene, Grace on her own holding the boat steady in the raging waters and storm while her father went onto the rock. They discovered nine survivors, too many for one trip back to the lighthouse. They brought back the first batch, a woman, an injured man, and three crewmen to Longstone, and then Mr Darling and the crewmen rowed back to get the remaining survivors while Grace and her mother tended the injured man and the woman, whose two children had been lost. By 9am all nine were safely at the lighthouse.

The ship was the HMS Forfarshire, en route from Hull to Dundee with 62 people on board. The ship’s boilers had failed, so the engine was useless,  and the captain only had a makeshift sail to use in the storm. He mistook the Longstone light for the Inner Farne one, and drifted onto the unseen rocky island. The ship broke in two, and by morning was almost completely sunk.  Nine other people had managed to board the ship’s lifeboat and were later picked up by a passing ship – all others were lost. The two drowned children’s bodies were also picked up later by the Seahouses lifeboat (with Grace’s brother on one of the oars). That lifeboat also had to shelter at the lighthouse for 3 days because of the weather.

Once the news broke, Grace was celebrated as a heroine throughout the land. She received honours, rewards (including £50 from Queen Victoria!), and even proposals of marriage.  Poems and songs were written about her and her portrait was freqently painted. Sadly, however, she didn’t live long to enjoy the admiration (if indeed she did) – she died of tuberculosis only four years later. Crowds turned out for her funeral in Bamburgh, where she has an ornate monument in the churchyard of historic St  Aidan’s Church, and the beautiful recumbent carving from her tomb is now preserved inside the church. I was able to visit them while in Northumberland last year.  There is also a RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh : https://rnli.org/find-my-nearest/museums/grace-darling-in-10-objects

On the Seaboard we also have our rowing heroine – Effie of the Two Oars; a reminder, along with Grace’s remarkable legacy, that women too have always played their part in the drama of the seas.

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